On arriving to Vientiane I really didn't understand why people disliked it. I was forever hearing stories of how boring and ugly and unexciting it was, but I was greeted by a place full of life, atmosphere and buzz. And for this reason, you should never allow other peoples perceptions determine where you go and what you do. Everyone has their own ideas on what makes a interesting place and what constitutes a good time. Just like Cinderella- the glass slipper won't fit everyone but when it fits, it fits perfectly. Vientiane was my glass slipper of Laos.
This is where I finally found my peace with Laos and all the bad luck I'd experienced melted away and was replaced by a warm fuzzy feeling that made me brim from ear to ear.
This city has a vibrant French influence, that is evident everywhere you turn. The avenues of trees, the replica of arc de triumph, the cafes and boulangies, and bicycles and scooters filling the streets.
We headed out to get dinner, walking straight into a market lining the main street parallel to the boulevard and the Mekong River, with Thailand twinkling in the distance. Here we sat down at a road side cafe and peered around at what everyone else was eating to get a feel for what was good.
Not only were tourists eating here but many locals- which is always a good sign and everyone seemed to be eating from a steaming pot balanced over a plate of hot coals, so we ordered the same.
Anywhere you go in Laos there's one thing you can guarantee is no matter where you are the waiter/waitress will always bring you the wrong thing. Every time without fail.) You'll be waiting for your change and they'll take it to the next table, you'll ask for a coke and they'll give it to your friend or in this case the next table have already ordered a hot pot and they brought it to us! Realising the mistake one of the older waiters comes over and takes it to the next table, then the young boy bring us a plate of seafood, and we once again pass it to the next table and then he brings us a plate of spices and looks really confused at where the seafood has just gone! Its just like a comedy of errors.
Always a constant running joke with everyone around you and you find yourself at every meal swap you dishes and drinks around the table.. But its all part of the charm of Laos.
Just as we walked away from the roadside cafe with bumped into Mike the Norwegian from Luang Prabang, so we finish off the evening with a few beers and heard the tales of the infamous guys night from LP.
On the monday morning we decide to hire bicycles so we can just ride around the city and explore.
Having a bike and being able to take things in at your own pace is really rewarding.. Its almost as if you become part of the city. Your slap bang in the middle of the raucous traffic, keeping up with the pace of the city. We spent the day visiting the Arc de Triumph replica (unfinished of course!) And leisurely stopping to pullover at a man with his fruit cart to eat some pineapple.
For lunch, we headed out to Nazim's a Indian restaurant just round the corner. And we were so amazed at how brilliant and cheap it is, we end up eating lunch there for the next three days too!
The rest of the afternoon we relaxed before heading out for the last time as the three of us for an early dinner before Alena caught a bus south to Cambodia. We decided to go to Lonely Planet recommended 'Sticky Fingers' which was well worth the recommendation it had received.
So as we met up with Dan and Phillip, we waved goodbye to Alena as she drove away on the back of a tuk tuk towards the bus station.
For the rest of the evening me and Merel had a few beers with the guys in a rooftop bar and then took a walk down the boulevard and sat by the river.
Tuesday was another leisurely day in Vientiane and I spent the morning cycling around the city looking in bookshops and art galleries. After lunch we caught up with the world at an internet cafe and took another ride around stopping at the mall, which was more of a self contained headache as it was brightly lit with 100 watt bulbs, then to a local market where we bought some fruit similar to lychees and found a quiet spot at a temple to sit and eat them at. As the sun set, we wandered down the boulevard watching the sun sink beyond the horizon, while the sky was flooded with luminous oranges and yellows and the rays finally faded into darkness. To finish off what can only be described as a perfect day, we ate at a small restaurant just a few metres from our restaurant. Cosy and quite looking, we decided we go inside... And god I'm glad I did. The carbonara is the best I've ever had.
Wednesday started with a bang. Determined to be active we wake up at seven and go for a run around the boulevard before the sun gets too hot. To our surprise we also come across some public gym equipment in a park next to the river so also had a go on that. Returning to our room exhausted, we have a power nap in the first air con room we've splashed out on while being away. After such an active start the days slows down again, we nazims for lunch then relaxing in a cafe eating ice-cream sundays for the rest of the afternoon.
At 6pm however we take exercise to a whole new level. Joining the locals in what can only be called the ultimate aerobics class. Taking place on the boulevard facing the river, accompanied with cheesiest music. It was the most intense workout of my life! I sweated from every single pore of my body but it was amazing! Granted we were near enough the only white people taking part so we got a few spectators- but it was all part of the fun of it!
After such an active day its only right that we should have ended the day with a kebab and a beer lol. Good things come to those who wait and all that!
On the Thursday it had finally come for Merel and me to finally part ways- me to fly to BK and her to Bali- so I set off to the airport saying me goodbyes to a dear friend I'd made (although in actual fact I would see her in less that 24hrs later walking down the street in BK!)
Laos had been the best of times and the weirdest of times; all in all I had some brilliant and memorable moments and made some amazing friends.. Some of which I would see again in the not too distant future!
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