Once again being left somewhere with the faith that someone at some point is going to come collect you, its just the way it works.
So we waited for around two hours in this little cafe taking some noodles for breakfast and watched the 'sing-a-long' karaoke channel (only in Thailand!) until our minibus came to take us to Krabi town.
The bus didn't take all that long and took us to Krabi town bus station. From there we bought a further ticket to Railey beach, and within 45 minutes another man came with his pick-up truck to take us to the harbour. However it had failed to be mentioned that we would encounter a charming women while we waited for the boat.
A women only to be described with eyes like the devil; I took an instant dislike to her.
We were told to wait in her travel agency until we could board. She ordered and bossed people around trying to get them to pay for hotels and boat tickets, day trips and excursions. If anything she was very good at her job, so in that way I have a little admiration for her, even though its matched by a greater loathing.
She seemed to be offering something almost reasonable to me and my friend so we accepted it cautiously, although not booking accommodation for our future plans which she took pleasure in scouring at us for. "I worry about you.." (In an almost evil tone) "Don't we'll be fine!" "OK BOSS!!! Hahaaa"... What a strange women!
As ever I knew to take what people say with a pinch of salt, as it can often be wrong, and because of my scepticism I sensed she didn't like me much either. I had heard rumours that accommodation in Railey was expensive, so when she offered some almost decent price we accepted (of course only to discover later that the place I had wanted to go was available and much cheaper!)
Finally we were on our way, away from that frightful women, and on the longboat to Railey beach.
The Andeman coast, (the western coast of the peninsula of Thailand), is one of the most beautiful places I have seen on my travels. Roughed with limestone cliffs towering way over the turquoise sea that laps up against the shores and up on to the rocks. Greenery covering the sprawling mountains and cliff edges in greens so deep its as if your looking at a painting not a real scene. Sometimes I can barely believe what I see in front of me. So many times have I seen such scenes in holiday programmes presented by Craig Doyle or paintings hung in the National or Tate Galleries depicting such views, that when you see it with your own eyes you have to blink to make sure your not dreaming.
Within an hour or so we arrive at Railey East check into the hotel the horrible women backed us into a corner to book and relax after what felt like a marathon journey. A jumbo, a night boat, a mini van, a pickup truck and a longboat and were finally here!
We decide to go out and have a wander around our new location to see what is what and a little way into the jungle up a small path buried under one of the towering cliffs we find a tiny wooden structure that houses a coffee shop owned by some rastas. When people say fresh coffee, you really can't say you experienced it until you've tasted a coffee made by the owner of this hut who's grown the beans himself and you've watched him with love, care and attention prepare a coffee which takes ten minutes to make. With every step he takes his time and ensures everything is just right... And the result?... One of the best coffees I've ever tasted.
We then go and sit on the beach for the rest of the afternoon, only to met one of Railey's other residents- a huge brown eagle like bird the resides in the trees near the beach.
This giant bird swoop and dives across the bay but takes a particular liking for one man stood up on the beach and decides to dive at him for about twenty minutes- he in turn stands trying to defend himself against the crazy bird with some kind of tennis racket he has in his hand. Extremely funny for everyone else on the beach watching but I imagine not so much for the birds target!
Later that day in search for dinner we find the hostel I was wanting to stay at originally (which I had been told was closed by that evil women!) open so we ate there.
Nextdoor to the hostel was the Rasta Bar which looked like a good place to hangout so we decided to pop in there for one and were told there was a live band playing that evening to celebrate the half moon so we figured we come back again later on when things had got going. The owner Nat also had a pet baby Otter that was adorable and followed along behind him wherever he went. Nothing surprises me anymore, not even how some has a baby otter as a pet!
There was another place not far from the Rasta bar that we'd wanted to check out called Last Bar so we figured we'd go there for a bit and come back to see the band.
Its the strangest feeling when you bump into friends in foreign countries even though you know their in the same country, so imagine my surprise when I bump into a girl I know in Last bar who I didn't even know was in Thailand! Railey beach, far away from civilisation, only accessible via boat and I bump into a friend from home! What a small world!
The four of us (me and my friend, and her and her friend) then all head back to see the band, then finish the night in last bar.
Not getting back till around 6am, the next day is of course spent hungover and we only hangout is local cafes for the day.
Tuesday, and today is a day for doing- yesterday was so lazy that I have booked to go rock climbing with the guys from the coffee shop and spent the morning with one of the guys climbing one of the limestone cliffs in the jungle. Very fun but also very exhausting; so much so that I get back to the room and fall asleep for two hours!
The rest of the day carries on on the same way, reading, cafes and general chilling out.
Before long its Wednesday and its time to leave- back to Krabi and on to the next place- Koh Lanta.
Railey is a stunning place, and although really quite small is full of friendly people and a beautiful beach and well worth the side track!
Thursday 29 September 2011
Koh Party Island
Koh Phangnan- I'm pretty sure that anyone who raves about this island was completely inebriated the whole time they were there or stayed in the north on the pristine picture postcard beaches where no drinking takes place at all.
We arrived to the usual hordes of locals pulling you this way and that all trying to get you to stay at their hotel or to take there taxi, which can be a bit overwhelming when you've literally just stepped foot off the boat and are finally back on dry land after your latest bout of sea sickness.
After working out what we were going to (and chatting to an austria women whom met in Vang Vieng that I bumped into) we got a jumbo to Hat Rin the most popular place on the island known for its parties and young backpacker population. Everyone else in the jumbo was heading to a place named Coral Bungalows which seemed decent and affordable so we decided to go there too.
At first glance it seemed nice enough. Clean and lively but after a while the tackiness and cheap holiday resort feel began to shine through a little. I honestly felt that I had been transported back in time and was in the set of Dirty Dancing. The music didn't help that feeling either with classics such as 'the cactus is our friend', which to this day I cannot work out what cheesy teen movie I heard it on.
After wonderful peaceful Koh Tao, this island definitely felt like it was built for tourists and centred around drinking.
That evening Coral was hosting a pool party- what it was famous for across the island and so that evening we went along. There was a pool and there was a party, but although not as crazy as I'd imagined we had a pretty good night. We got chatting to a few spanish people who were woking in dubai and spent the night with them and unfortunately a weird Italian guy called Mimo.
Mimo had seemed innocent enough when he had first introduced himself to me and my friend but when he tried to make advances and was turned down by Andrea, he just became irritating and wouldn't drop the subject.
He proceeded whining "Why Andrea, why?!" when she finally just gave up explaining that she had a boyfriend and wasn't interested and started ignoring him instead. (That phase however became rather infamous!)
There's always one that has to spoil it! After a while we managed to loose him and we could relax that we were no longer plagued by this crazy Italian man!
The next day was largely uneventful as we just spent the day relaxing at the hotel and beach reading and chilling out.
Feeling ready to actually do something and a bit bored of the tackiness of Hat Rin we had booked a boat trip for the friday to get out and see a bit of the island and hopefully have our minds changed about this popular destination.
What that trip did was to open our eyes up to the fact that our hotel wasn't in the middle of nowhere but 10mins walk to the town and where the popular beach of Hat Rin was- right under our noses the whole time!
The day as a whole was a well spent day. We got to see the other more secluded beaches on the north of the island as well as the vast amount of fish that occupied the waters. And as it turns out a girl that I'd met back in BK was on the same boat trip!
When we arrived back at Hat Rin, six of us decided to meet back up and have dinner together- which was actually ignited by the only man on the boat, a lone 40-something man who in coincidentally was Italian and looked like Mimo! (If mimo had grown a bit of hair and put on a hat it really wasn't working very well!)
After dinner we moved to watch the local fire dancers do their stuff, getting the spectators involved by with fire blowing and games such as the balloon game, transforming in to a beach party that went on until the early hours.
The saturday was our final on Koh Phagnan before heading to Krabi province on the east coast on over night via ferry and bus.
As a traveller it serves you well not always to put total trust in the information people give you. Although they are probably misguided and not meaning to do you wrong its always best to get a second opinion on most things. For example, having decided we wanted to get the night ferry we asked one women about booking and she told us it does not run over the weekend- which would have put a spanner in the works! However it turns out it was running! We also asked a women at our hotel and she rang the boat company up and they were running as usual. Case proven!
For the rest of the day we went to Hat Rin Noi beach and chilled out at our hostel until the time came for us to be taken to the harbour for our boat to the mainland.
The boat itself wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. It actually had mattresses laid out on the upper deck of the boat all with pillows. The only worrying thing was the amount the boat rocked side to side which was rather unsettling until it slowly rocked me to sleep.
We arrived at the mainland at around half five in the morning and were taken to a cafe where we waited till seven for the minibus to take us to Krabi.
If you take Koh Phangnan for exactly what it is its amazing. Ok so the town itself is a little touristy and the beach parties are what you expect- full of westerners yes but also a lot of fun. As for full moon parties I can't comment but from what I've heard the general consensus is "I'm glad I did it, but I would never do it again!"
We arrived to the usual hordes of locals pulling you this way and that all trying to get you to stay at their hotel or to take there taxi, which can be a bit overwhelming when you've literally just stepped foot off the boat and are finally back on dry land after your latest bout of sea sickness.
After working out what we were going to (and chatting to an austria women whom met in Vang Vieng that I bumped into) we got a jumbo to Hat Rin the most popular place on the island known for its parties and young backpacker population. Everyone else in the jumbo was heading to a place named Coral Bungalows which seemed decent and affordable so we decided to go there too.
At first glance it seemed nice enough. Clean and lively but after a while the tackiness and cheap holiday resort feel began to shine through a little. I honestly felt that I had been transported back in time and was in the set of Dirty Dancing. The music didn't help that feeling either with classics such as 'the cactus is our friend', which to this day I cannot work out what cheesy teen movie I heard it on.
After wonderful peaceful Koh Tao, this island definitely felt like it was built for tourists and centred around drinking.
That evening Coral was hosting a pool party- what it was famous for across the island and so that evening we went along. There was a pool and there was a party, but although not as crazy as I'd imagined we had a pretty good night. We got chatting to a few spanish people who were woking in dubai and spent the night with them and unfortunately a weird Italian guy called Mimo.
Mimo had seemed innocent enough when he had first introduced himself to me and my friend but when he tried to make advances and was turned down by Andrea, he just became irritating and wouldn't drop the subject.
He proceeded whining "Why Andrea, why?!" when she finally just gave up explaining that she had a boyfriend and wasn't interested and started ignoring him instead. (That phase however became rather infamous!)
There's always one that has to spoil it! After a while we managed to loose him and we could relax that we were no longer plagued by this crazy Italian man!
The next day was largely uneventful as we just spent the day relaxing at the hotel and beach reading and chilling out.
Feeling ready to actually do something and a bit bored of the tackiness of Hat Rin we had booked a boat trip for the friday to get out and see a bit of the island and hopefully have our minds changed about this popular destination.
What that trip did was to open our eyes up to the fact that our hotel wasn't in the middle of nowhere but 10mins walk to the town and where the popular beach of Hat Rin was- right under our noses the whole time!
The day as a whole was a well spent day. We got to see the other more secluded beaches on the north of the island as well as the vast amount of fish that occupied the waters. And as it turns out a girl that I'd met back in BK was on the same boat trip!
When we arrived back at Hat Rin, six of us decided to meet back up and have dinner together- which was actually ignited by the only man on the boat, a lone 40-something man who in coincidentally was Italian and looked like Mimo! (If mimo had grown a bit of hair and put on a hat it really wasn't working very well!)
After dinner we moved to watch the local fire dancers do their stuff, getting the spectators involved by with fire blowing and games such as the balloon game, transforming in to a beach party that went on until the early hours.
The saturday was our final on Koh Phagnan before heading to Krabi province on the east coast on over night via ferry and bus.
As a traveller it serves you well not always to put total trust in the information people give you. Although they are probably misguided and not meaning to do you wrong its always best to get a second opinion on most things. For example, having decided we wanted to get the night ferry we asked one women about booking and she told us it does not run over the weekend- which would have put a spanner in the works! However it turns out it was running! We also asked a women at our hotel and she rang the boat company up and they were running as usual. Case proven!
For the rest of the day we went to Hat Rin Noi beach and chilled out at our hostel until the time came for us to be taken to the harbour for our boat to the mainland.
The boat itself wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. It actually had mattresses laid out on the upper deck of the boat all with pillows. The only worrying thing was the amount the boat rocked side to side which was rather unsettling until it slowly rocked me to sleep.
We arrived at the mainland at around half five in the morning and were taken to a cafe where we waited till seven for the minibus to take us to Krabi.
If you take Koh Phangnan for exactly what it is its amazing. Ok so the town itself is a little touristy and the beach parties are what you expect- full of westerners yes but also a lot of fun. As for full moon parties I can't comment but from what I've heard the general consensus is "I'm glad I did it, but I would never do it again!"
Wednesday 14 September 2011
Koh Tao I Love You
The journey to Koh Tao was fairly painless although long. There had been a slightly worrying moment when at three in the morning we'd dropped at a petrol station and told to wait- without any further instruction. However it was only about two minutes before a man was ushering us over to his Jumbo (a big pickup with benches in the back) telling us he was there to take us to the ferry. Sometimes it pays to be trusting as he was good to his word and we were taken to the ferry point where we waited for around 3hrs for the ferry to the island.
Even on first impressions I fell for Koh Tao in a big way and still to this day am sad I didn't spend longer on its sandy shores.
Known famously for it dive culture, Koh Tao is a very relaxed bohemian place to spend your days. The small winding alley-way main street of the coastal villages runs parallel to the cost line lined with restaurants, bars, guest houses, dive-schools and the odd 7/11. And by night this alley-way is alive with the buzz of the evening, the air glowing with lanterns and small lights hanging from buildings and trees.
I had just such an overwhelming feeling of happiness in this place, and although I cannot say that I really did much, I felt the warm sense of contentment the whole time I was there.
The days started with runs down the beach, followed by a lazy travelers breakfast of nutella and bread. We'd spend the rest of the day on the beach and until early evening, when we'd firstly sat at a beach side restaurant with a cup of tea and then ate dinner at another local place while watching a recent blockbuster accompanied by a few Changs, then finished the evening with the short walk back to our room ready to sleep and do the same the next day.
The routine was nice and we did this for a few days before we decided it was time to move on to Koh Phangnan- the island made famous (or should I say infamous) by the full moon parties it hosted. So on the Wednesday (31st) we left Koh Tao happy and relaxed ready for whatever Koh Phangnan had to offer.
Even on first impressions I fell for Koh Tao in a big way and still to this day am sad I didn't spend longer on its sandy shores.
Known famously for it dive culture, Koh Tao is a very relaxed bohemian place to spend your days. The small winding alley-way main street of the coastal villages runs parallel to the cost line lined with restaurants, bars, guest houses, dive-schools and the odd 7/11. And by night this alley-way is alive with the buzz of the evening, the air glowing with lanterns and small lights hanging from buildings and trees.
I had just such an overwhelming feeling of happiness in this place, and although I cannot say that I really did much, I felt the warm sense of contentment the whole time I was there.
The days started with runs down the beach, followed by a lazy travelers breakfast of nutella and bread. We'd spend the rest of the day on the beach and until early evening, when we'd firstly sat at a beach side restaurant with a cup of tea and then ate dinner at another local place while watching a recent blockbuster accompanied by a few Changs, then finished the evening with the short walk back to our room ready to sleep and do the same the next day.
The routine was nice and we did this for a few days before we decided it was time to move on to Koh Phangnan- the island made famous (or should I say infamous) by the full moon parties it hosted. So on the Wednesday (31st) we left Koh Tao happy and relaxed ready for whatever Koh Phangnan had to offer.
Back in BK
On the 25th afternoon I flew back to BK leaving Laos behind with many fond memories but happy to be returning to beautiful Thailand to go and see the most beautiful places of all- the islands and beaches of the south.
I arrive early evening, and it feel like I returned home. Back in the hustle and bustle of one of the world most renown cities never knowing quite what to expect but always feeling comfortable and excited.
Determined to find a cheaper way into the city from the airport, I headed towards the train station.
One of the greatest perks of travelling is the people you meet along the way, and that Thursday was no exception. Obviously looking very lost at the ticket machine with my map out, no doubt looking like a typical tourist, a local man offered some help which I happily accepted. Showing me which way to go, giving me a better map and even paying for part of my ticket he sent me on the right track... Along with another english man who had come over to me once he'd left asking if he could come with me too.
So the two of us set off back towards Khao San Rd, the heart of BK's backpacker community. (When I had gone through arrivals, when asked to write my Thai address I'd simply written Khao San Rd, which amused the guide somewhat!)
When me and the teacher, on his school holidays, arrived we went our separate ways- me to a hostel I knew well- cheap, easy and clean and him towards the main street in search of a last night in Thailand he wouldn't forget before flying home.
So that evening I chilled alone for the first time in weeks feeling perfectly happy whiling away the evening at My House on the sofas eating Thai green curry, drinking Chang (!) and watching films with the rest of the hostel.
The following morning I set off back to the airport to go and meet Marnie, who had decided she'd like to join me for a few weeks in Thailand.
It felt very bizarre that within a matter of a few hours I would be seeing my friend. It had felt like months since I'd been at home, and anything 'normal' felt worlds away right now.
It was exciting to see her and almost unreal.
We headed back to the hostel where I was staying and on the there who should we see but Merel!
After all Marnies travelling we took a short walk around the local area but just mainly chilled out at the hostel and while Marnie slept I went to sort out a blocked bankcard, only then to bump into phillip! Yet again me and Phillip and Merel were to be reunited!
That evening the four of us went out to get some food together- going on Phillips instruction we were heading to a restaurant that he'd stumbled on the day before and had taken a shine to. Only thing was it was less of a restaurant than a hole in a wall down an alley, which served only papaya salad and chicken curry which was more chicken cartridge than anything I would consider curry!
After having eaten not so well we parted ways with Phillip who had plans to meet with some others, and me Marnie and Merel whiled the evening away at a road side regaee bar, drinking buckets of Sangsom, who's slogan was "we don't check I'd."
Saturday morning came and me and Marnie headed to the Weekend market- aptly named as it was on Saturdays and Sundays.
This place was HUGE. You wanted clothes, they had it. You wanted a chair, they had it. You wanted a massive machete, they had it. Everything you could dream of was there. We were there for like four hours and I am in no doubt I didn't even see a quarter of the place.
The ride back from the market was just as entertaining as the market itself. Convinced he was a rally driver trapped in the body of a tuk tuk driver, our driver raced through the streets of Bangkok as if his life depended on it. (When in fact my life depended on it, and at one or two time when the tuk tuk was lifted on to only two wheels as he's skidded around buses, I saw it flash before my eyes!)
Arriving back at the hostel we had just enough time to eat some fried rice and yet again say goodbyes to Merel and Phillip before catching a night bus to the first of our island stops- Koh Tao.
...And goodbye to Bangkok once again. It had been a pleasure and I'd no doubt be seeing her again soon!
I arrive early evening, and it feel like I returned home. Back in the hustle and bustle of one of the world most renown cities never knowing quite what to expect but always feeling comfortable and excited.
Determined to find a cheaper way into the city from the airport, I headed towards the train station.
One of the greatest perks of travelling is the people you meet along the way, and that Thursday was no exception. Obviously looking very lost at the ticket machine with my map out, no doubt looking like a typical tourist, a local man offered some help which I happily accepted. Showing me which way to go, giving me a better map and even paying for part of my ticket he sent me on the right track... Along with another english man who had come over to me once he'd left asking if he could come with me too.
So the two of us set off back towards Khao San Rd, the heart of BK's backpacker community. (When I had gone through arrivals, when asked to write my Thai address I'd simply written Khao San Rd, which amused the guide somewhat!)
When me and the teacher, on his school holidays, arrived we went our separate ways- me to a hostel I knew well- cheap, easy and clean and him towards the main street in search of a last night in Thailand he wouldn't forget before flying home.
So that evening I chilled alone for the first time in weeks feeling perfectly happy whiling away the evening at My House on the sofas eating Thai green curry, drinking Chang (!) and watching films with the rest of the hostel.
The following morning I set off back to the airport to go and meet Marnie, who had decided she'd like to join me for a few weeks in Thailand.
It felt very bizarre that within a matter of a few hours I would be seeing my friend. It had felt like months since I'd been at home, and anything 'normal' felt worlds away right now.
It was exciting to see her and almost unreal.
We headed back to the hostel where I was staying and on the there who should we see but Merel!
After all Marnies travelling we took a short walk around the local area but just mainly chilled out at the hostel and while Marnie slept I went to sort out a blocked bankcard, only then to bump into phillip! Yet again me and Phillip and Merel were to be reunited!
That evening the four of us went out to get some food together- going on Phillips instruction we were heading to a restaurant that he'd stumbled on the day before and had taken a shine to. Only thing was it was less of a restaurant than a hole in a wall down an alley, which served only papaya salad and chicken curry which was more chicken cartridge than anything I would consider curry!
After having eaten not so well we parted ways with Phillip who had plans to meet with some others, and me Marnie and Merel whiled the evening away at a road side regaee bar, drinking buckets of Sangsom, who's slogan was "we don't check I'd."
Saturday morning came and me and Marnie headed to the Weekend market- aptly named as it was on Saturdays and Sundays.
This place was HUGE. You wanted clothes, they had it. You wanted a chair, they had it. You wanted a massive machete, they had it. Everything you could dream of was there. We were there for like four hours and I am in no doubt I didn't even see a quarter of the place.
The ride back from the market was just as entertaining as the market itself. Convinced he was a rally driver trapped in the body of a tuk tuk driver, our driver raced through the streets of Bangkok as if his life depended on it. (When in fact my life depended on it, and at one or two time when the tuk tuk was lifted on to only two wheels as he's skidded around buses, I saw it flash before my eyes!)
Arriving back at the hostel we had just enough time to eat some fried rice and yet again say goodbyes to Merel and Phillip before catching a night bus to the first of our island stops- Koh Tao.
...And goodbye to Bangkok once again. It had been a pleasure and I'd no doubt be seeing her again soon!
Thank god for Vientiane!
On arriving to Vientiane I really didn't understand why people disliked it. I was forever hearing stories of how boring and ugly and unexciting it was, but I was greeted by a place full of life, atmosphere and buzz. And for this reason, you should never allow other peoples perceptions determine where you go and what you do. Everyone has their own ideas on what makes a interesting place and what constitutes a good time. Just like Cinderella- the glass slipper won't fit everyone but when it fits, it fits perfectly. Vientiane was my glass slipper of Laos.
This is where I finally found my peace with Laos and all the bad luck I'd experienced melted away and was replaced by a warm fuzzy feeling that made me brim from ear to ear.
This city has a vibrant French influence, that is evident everywhere you turn. The avenues of trees, the replica of arc de triumph, the cafes and boulangies, and bicycles and scooters filling the streets.
We headed out to get dinner, walking straight into a market lining the main street parallel to the boulevard and the Mekong River, with Thailand twinkling in the distance. Here we sat down at a road side cafe and peered around at what everyone else was eating to get a feel for what was good.
Not only were tourists eating here but many locals- which is always a good sign and everyone seemed to be eating from a steaming pot balanced over a plate of hot coals, so we ordered the same.
Anywhere you go in Laos there's one thing you can guarantee is no matter where you are the waiter/waitress will always bring you the wrong thing. Every time without fail.) You'll be waiting for your change and they'll take it to the next table, you'll ask for a coke and they'll give it to your friend or in this case the next table have already ordered a hot pot and they brought it to us! Realising the mistake one of the older waiters comes over and takes it to the next table, then the young boy bring us a plate of seafood, and we once again pass it to the next table and then he brings us a plate of spices and looks really confused at where the seafood has just gone! Its just like a comedy of errors.
Always a constant running joke with everyone around you and you find yourself at every meal swap you dishes and drinks around the table.. But its all part of the charm of Laos.
Just as we walked away from the roadside cafe with bumped into Mike the Norwegian from Luang Prabang, so we finish off the evening with a few beers and heard the tales of the infamous guys night from LP.
On the monday morning we decide to hire bicycles so we can just ride around the city and explore.
Having a bike and being able to take things in at your own pace is really rewarding.. Its almost as if you become part of the city. Your slap bang in the middle of the raucous traffic, keeping up with the pace of the city. We spent the day visiting the Arc de Triumph replica (unfinished of course!) And leisurely stopping to pullover at a man with his fruit cart to eat some pineapple.
For lunch, we headed out to Nazim's a Indian restaurant just round the corner. And we were so amazed at how brilliant and cheap it is, we end up eating lunch there for the next three days too!
The rest of the afternoon we relaxed before heading out for the last time as the three of us for an early dinner before Alena caught a bus south to Cambodia. We decided to go to Lonely Planet recommended 'Sticky Fingers' which was well worth the recommendation it had received.
So as we met up with Dan and Phillip, we waved goodbye to Alena as she drove away on the back of a tuk tuk towards the bus station.
For the rest of the evening me and Merel had a few beers with the guys in a rooftop bar and then took a walk down the boulevard and sat by the river.
Tuesday was another leisurely day in Vientiane and I spent the morning cycling around the city looking in bookshops and art galleries. After lunch we caught up with the world at an internet cafe and took another ride around stopping at the mall, which was more of a self contained headache as it was brightly lit with 100 watt bulbs, then to a local market where we bought some fruit similar to lychees and found a quiet spot at a temple to sit and eat them at. As the sun set, we wandered down the boulevard watching the sun sink beyond the horizon, while the sky was flooded with luminous oranges and yellows and the rays finally faded into darkness. To finish off what can only be described as a perfect day, we ate at a small restaurant just a few metres from our restaurant. Cosy and quite looking, we decided we go inside... And god I'm glad I did. The carbonara is the best I've ever had.
Wednesday started with a bang. Determined to be active we wake up at seven and go for a run around the boulevard before the sun gets too hot. To our surprise we also come across some public gym equipment in a park next to the river so also had a go on that. Returning to our room exhausted, we have a power nap in the first air con room we've splashed out on while being away. After such an active start the days slows down again, we nazims for lunch then relaxing in a cafe eating ice-cream sundays for the rest of the afternoon.
At 6pm however we take exercise to a whole new level. Joining the locals in what can only be called the ultimate aerobics class. Taking place on the boulevard facing the river, accompanied with cheesiest music. It was the most intense workout of my life! I sweated from every single pore of my body but it was amazing! Granted we were near enough the only white people taking part so we got a few spectators- but it was all part of the fun of it!
After such an active day its only right that we should have ended the day with a kebab and a beer lol. Good things come to those who wait and all that!
On the Thursday it had finally come for Merel and me to finally part ways- me to fly to BK and her to Bali- so I set off to the airport saying me goodbyes to a dear friend I'd made (although in actual fact I would see her in less that 24hrs later walking down the street in BK!)
Laos had been the best of times and the weirdest of times; all in all I had some brilliant and memorable moments and made some amazing friends.. Some of which I would see again in the not too distant future!
This is where I finally found my peace with Laos and all the bad luck I'd experienced melted away and was replaced by a warm fuzzy feeling that made me brim from ear to ear.
This city has a vibrant French influence, that is evident everywhere you turn. The avenues of trees, the replica of arc de triumph, the cafes and boulangies, and bicycles and scooters filling the streets.
We headed out to get dinner, walking straight into a market lining the main street parallel to the boulevard and the Mekong River, with Thailand twinkling in the distance. Here we sat down at a road side cafe and peered around at what everyone else was eating to get a feel for what was good.
Not only were tourists eating here but many locals- which is always a good sign and everyone seemed to be eating from a steaming pot balanced over a plate of hot coals, so we ordered the same.
Anywhere you go in Laos there's one thing you can guarantee is no matter where you are the waiter/waitress will always bring you the wrong thing. Every time without fail.) You'll be waiting for your change and they'll take it to the next table, you'll ask for a coke and they'll give it to your friend or in this case the next table have already ordered a hot pot and they brought it to us! Realising the mistake one of the older waiters comes over and takes it to the next table, then the young boy bring us a plate of seafood, and we once again pass it to the next table and then he brings us a plate of spices and looks really confused at where the seafood has just gone! Its just like a comedy of errors.
Always a constant running joke with everyone around you and you find yourself at every meal swap you dishes and drinks around the table.. But its all part of the charm of Laos.
Just as we walked away from the roadside cafe with bumped into Mike the Norwegian from Luang Prabang, so we finish off the evening with a few beers and heard the tales of the infamous guys night from LP.
On the monday morning we decide to hire bicycles so we can just ride around the city and explore.
Having a bike and being able to take things in at your own pace is really rewarding.. Its almost as if you become part of the city. Your slap bang in the middle of the raucous traffic, keeping up with the pace of the city. We spent the day visiting the Arc de Triumph replica (unfinished of course!) And leisurely stopping to pullover at a man with his fruit cart to eat some pineapple.
For lunch, we headed out to Nazim's a Indian restaurant just round the corner. And we were so amazed at how brilliant and cheap it is, we end up eating lunch there for the next three days too!
The rest of the afternoon we relaxed before heading out for the last time as the three of us for an early dinner before Alena caught a bus south to Cambodia. We decided to go to Lonely Planet recommended 'Sticky Fingers' which was well worth the recommendation it had received.
So as we met up with Dan and Phillip, we waved goodbye to Alena as she drove away on the back of a tuk tuk towards the bus station.
For the rest of the evening me and Merel had a few beers with the guys in a rooftop bar and then took a walk down the boulevard and sat by the river.
Tuesday was another leisurely day in Vientiane and I spent the morning cycling around the city looking in bookshops and art galleries. After lunch we caught up with the world at an internet cafe and took another ride around stopping at the mall, which was more of a self contained headache as it was brightly lit with 100 watt bulbs, then to a local market where we bought some fruit similar to lychees and found a quiet spot at a temple to sit and eat them at. As the sun set, we wandered down the boulevard watching the sun sink beyond the horizon, while the sky was flooded with luminous oranges and yellows and the rays finally faded into darkness. To finish off what can only be described as a perfect day, we ate at a small restaurant just a few metres from our restaurant. Cosy and quite looking, we decided we go inside... And god I'm glad I did. The carbonara is the best I've ever had.
Wednesday started with a bang. Determined to be active we wake up at seven and go for a run around the boulevard before the sun gets too hot. To our surprise we also come across some public gym equipment in a park next to the river so also had a go on that. Returning to our room exhausted, we have a power nap in the first air con room we've splashed out on while being away. After such an active start the days slows down again, we nazims for lunch then relaxing in a cafe eating ice-cream sundays for the rest of the afternoon.
At 6pm however we take exercise to a whole new level. Joining the locals in what can only be called the ultimate aerobics class. Taking place on the boulevard facing the river, accompanied with cheesiest music. It was the most intense workout of my life! I sweated from every single pore of my body but it was amazing! Granted we were near enough the only white people taking part so we got a few spectators- but it was all part of the fun of it!
After such an active day its only right that we should have ended the day with a kebab and a beer lol. Good things come to those who wait and all that!
On the Thursday it had finally come for Merel and me to finally part ways- me to fly to BK and her to Bali- so I set off to the airport saying me goodbyes to a dear friend I'd made (although in actual fact I would see her in less that 24hrs later walking down the street in BK!)
Laos had been the best of times and the weirdest of times; all in all I had some brilliant and memorable moments and made some amazing friends.. Some of which I would see again in the not too distant future!
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