Back to Brissy!

I booked the bus back to Brissy on Sunday the 18th, unfortuntely the only bus is at 6:50 in the morning so I decided that i'd rather work the Saturday night straight through to 4am, grab a shower then head straight to the bus. And that's exactly what I did.

That night was unbelieveably busy in the restaurant and bar but one hella good night. I had a laugh with my work mates and it left me with some good memories of my friends and working at the Isa hotel. I got to say goodbye to everyone and left work on a high.

I had been warned though that sometimes buses were cancelled because of the weather- because of the time of year there were terrific storms every so often and the night before there had been the loudest one I had witnesses in Mt Isa which ruined the carpark at the hotel. So when I arrived at the bus depo and was told that the bus may get terminated part way it didn't fill me with confidence that i'd get to Brissy after all. Luckily enough the weather didn't get bad though and we made it all the way in one piece.

Along the way we stopped at all the same dead-end places we'd gone to on the way, most of which I recognised from before.

We stopped at one place for lunch so I went inside a cafe and ordered a drink. When I asked the women where the toilets were she said they were down the street. I thought she was having me on but her serious face didn't seem like she was joking, so after ordering a tea just so I could use the bathroom I turned around and went in search for the toilet. When I found them, the first thing I saw was a sign saying 'For your convenience,' which I found slightly ironic. I'd also seen better toilets in the third world, which didn't have a pile of dead moths in the sink! There was also a sign saying that the hand dryer was on fixed on the wall for the users convenience- obviously they'd been victims of vandalism which a sign pointing out why the hand dyer was on the wall- where they usually are.

So in a not-so painful 26 hours I was back in Brissy and checked in to the hostel that was defintely not the advertised 400 metres away from the bus station. Indeed it was a big orange building as stated but not even slightly visable from the bus station enterance.

A quick shower I booked my bus to my next stop, Noosa, and then headed to Queen Street- the home of Brissys shops. After spending the last couple of months in the middle of nowhere and working every hour under the sun- i defintely derserved to spend some of my hard earned cash and that is exactly what I did. A few new clothes and a new netbook- Happy birthday and christmas to me!

Exhausted from working straight through and the long journey I just chilled out for the rest of the day.

The follwing day i picked up a few things i needed still and headed back to the hostel only to bump into Crystal and Peter who I worked with in Mount Isa! They'd taken the same bus the day after and had just arrived in brissy. We went out and grabbed some Korean food for lunch before I caught my bus. Even though i'd only just left them in Mt Isa, it was sure nice to see them again, a friendly face is always a bonus when travelling and hopefully I'll be able to catch up with them once more in Sydney at New Years!

So thats me two weeks of freedom now- time to spend some of the money I've earned a week here in Noosa on the Sunshine Coast and then Heading to Sydney for New Years!... and hopefully then working there too. But as always, who knows.... all plans are subject to change :)

Mount Isa

Life in the mining town from then on was rather uneventful with my whole life pretty much evolving around work. I guess a bit of a dose of reality after all the travelling. Although I definitelty learnt a thing or two about Australia and Aussies in this crazy place.

I don't think i've been called 'mate' so many times in my life... In England its more a guy thing i'd say but here anyone is 'mate,' pretty strange if you ask me- I figured it was just part of the Aussie stereotyping you see on movies but apparently its not just Crocodile Dundee that says it!

I'm also still getting used to people saying 'good job!' to me when I serve them a drink or clear their plates- At first I couldn't work out if it meant 'well done' or 'thanks'... I'm pretty sure it means the latter now after hearing it a fair a fair few times but I always like to think that they think i'm good at what i'm doing- a nice little pick me up :)

Another thing i've learnt that if there's one thing that is worse than women with PMS its chefs. Jesus, they all must die from stress induced heart-attacks! Never happy, always wanting something done differently and yelling at you even if your doing something they've asked you to do!
If I had to give them one piece of advice it would be this: talk to each other. The amount of times I've been yelled at because of doing something in a way that they do not like- which is exactly how i've been told how to do it by someone else is ridiculious! They all need to sit down and communicate and then they might finally be happy...maybe.
Although in saying that they are always laughing and joking, ....so my conclusion is you either have to be really passionate about food if you want to be a chef.... or just plain mad!

Mount Isa may have been a place in the middle of nowhere, a dirty dusty old mining town with the beauty of an industrial plant but as I always say it really is the people who you meet that really make a place really mean something to me.

I met some amazing people in that place, from the weird and wonderful to the lovely to the damn right crazy- Mount Isa had them all.

Firstly I have to mention a forty-something Kiwi women who became one of my most treasured friends for the duration of my time there, Chris. She was my room mate and was probably the person I spent most of my time with- when not working! She is a wonderfully warm and generous lady and could talk like she was 'down with the kids.' She introduced me to a life of drinking green tea and fruit and yoghurt for breakfast. She was my groceries friend, cinema buddy and all round gossip queen. She probably knows as much about my friends and family in England as they do. As i've heard all about Callamallah and Culamullah! And just when you thought you had her pegged she'd do something to completely shock you like bringing a bag of shots home from work (a bottle shop) and insist we take five in a row!

My other room mate, Tim from Essex, an essex lad through and through always with the banter. A fellow Inbetweeners lover, (although shamefully I watched the film without him and even Chris saw it before him!) we spent most of the time cracking jokes and fooling about. And he's sad enough to be going back to Mount Isa after Christmas and New Years... what a loser haha.

The hostel owner was Kim an old Korean man, who who always pleasant. He spent most of his time of some kind of handy man mission, while his wife Polly ran the hostel. Polly was one of those all round lovely people- always happy and keeping busy.

The night manager was also called Chris, although he was a old grumbling man most of the time. Living off the glory of once being some kind of hot shot chef in London's Notting Hill (although just how good remains a suspicion of mine,) and boosting about his super large collection of downloaded films on the hostel hard drive. He spent most of his time making his famous salad and showing his cooking off to whoever listened and being wound up royally by a Kiwi lad called Tim.

Tim is defintely one of a kind. The type of person that is there was more than one of them in a room at one time the world would implode. Very quick witted but an absolute fool 100% of the time- he constantly had you in stiches and knew excatly how to drive Chris round the bend. The breadmaker inccident right before I left was probably one of the best.

Chris obviously a chef so has to show off and make his own bread, for some reason had asked Tim for his expertise in making cheese and bacon bread. Of course it led to diaster. Chris in bed asleep while the bread maker burnt down destroying the bread and almost taking Chris with it if Tim hadn't knocked on his door to wake him up when he spotted smoke coming out of his bedroom window. Although he didn't get get any thanks caused he was blamed for the who incident, but if your going to take Tim'd advice what do you expect! That was his first mistake!

Others staying at the hostel on a long term basis included Cat a girl from Melbourne working as a nurse in the mines, Clem and Matty who both worked in the mines, and Sisco a young guy from German on a 6 mth contract at the Isa working as a chef as part of his Chef training.

Cat had a fantasic sense of humour and initiatived the idea for 'Pet day' which was purely invented to wind Chris up, were we were going to get whatever animals we could find and bring them to the hostel for a day, (there was a house two doors down with bred camels and had a baby camel which was going to be the star attraction!) unfortunetly this idea didn't take off before I left.

Clem, a guy I got on really well with and had many fun nights with including the night where we played accent factor while reading ithe latest copy of 'famous' magazine. He had a built in radar for gossip girl and always managed to walk into the living room when i'd just put it on but claimed not to like it... likely story :p

Matty, a guy from Brissy, who also went by the name of 'suss cunt,' due to his large use of the word cunt. Never have I heard anyone manage to fit the word cunt so many times into one sentence.

Sisco was a lovely young german guy. Quiet but really sweet and passionate about karate and chefery and as it turns out Cat too!

And let me not forget Bill! Jesus Christ. A die-hard Christain who converted from his no good lifestyle when he saw God appear to him through a bright light through his window one night, (or it could have just been a headlight!) He had a dream that God had choosen him to travel around Australia by bicycle (!) and spread the gospel. Quite interesting to listen to and even more interesting when listening to him discussing how to attempt to tell a gay man that he's going to hell! I'd listened a lot to what he had to say but when he said that I thought enough is enough and I had to tell him to stop, as he didn't really care about the reprecussions set on serving 'God's word'- after all isn't religion supposed to be about loving all men despite their supposed flaws?!

Let's not forget all the girls and guys from the Rodeo bar where I worked for the last couple of months too! The two Phillapeano women Marylou and Filma, who were like the Cinderalla's fairy god mothers and Frank also from the Phillapeans, Dorothee from France who I laughed with at stupid customers, Crystal from Korea who's one of the sweetest people i've ever met and Ashani from Ski Lanka who's juist adorable- all who I got to know well working morning shifts.
Alisha from Ireland, Ashely from somewhere in England (!) who now lives is Oz, Liam from Blackburn who I shared a similar love of comedy with, Rod from Paris who's English isn't great but is full of life and is a lovely person although a little crazy :p , Mandi who lives in Mt Isa with her family and has some of the best dance moves i've seen :) Karlyn, Anna, Peta, Reana and then Carla, Sasha from the gaming room and Vicky and Ann-Marie our managers.

And of course those moaning stressed out but brilliant and funny Chefs Vicky, Amit, Krishna, Ida, Peter, Katsun and Ronnie (although I never did once see the last three complain about anything!)

For all it might have been a weird place in the middle of nowhere- i loved being there and wouldn't change it for the world :)

Travelling means...

Smelling you clothes before you put them on to see if they're clean

Forgetting what it feels like to wear shoes other than flip-flops

Learning new words like schooner and ting-tong

Been woken up by people in your dorm having very loud sex

No longer caring about wearing socks more than once

Using your scarf as a blanket, pillow, sarong and towel

Taking overnight transport just to save on accommodation costs

Having to use a shower over a toilet

Stealing toilet roll from every cafe you visit

Choosing where to eat based on whether the place has wifi or not

Never knowing what day of the week it is

Going places your never planned to go

Overcoming fears

Randomly choosing things off the menu and hoping for the best

Drinking more alcohol that you have in your life

Always never knowing your way around

Nothing ever tasting like it does back home

Being able to drive a scooter without a licence

paying to spend a night in a room no better than a shed

Impromptu karaoke nights lasting till the early morning

Drinking alcohol but the bucket, just not just the glass

Learning to like beer because its cheap

Nursing a hangover while lying on the beach

Doing activities you'd never do back home like trekking and climbing

Seeing more temples/mosques/churches than you'd ever dreamed of

Getting up at 5am, just to see the sunrise

Truly appreciating clean clothes

Haggling over 10p

Fearing for your life while the locals laugh at your when on a boat in a storm

Being offered drugs while you walk down the street

Bribing police officers

Meeting people from all over the world

Being a million miles from home and still managing to bump into someone you know!

Seeing the most beautiful sunsets of your life

Making friends for life

Hearing stories that put your life into prospective

Having near death experiences

Having some nights you will never forget

Having some nights you'd rather forget!

Being dropped of a bus in the middle of nowhere and having the faith you'll be picked up again by the next one

Sometimes making really bad decisions

Being spontaneous

Looking out for the friends you make knowing they'd do the same for you

Being overwhelmed by the kindness of strangers

Learning things about yourself you never knew

Pushing yourself to do things you didn't think you could do

Having one song that reminds you of the good times

Being upstaged my a ten year old when they call a huge spider little

Laughing until you cry

Not being able to sit at the back of a bus because its reserved for monks

Missing the people you love the most everyday.

The mining town of Isa

Twenty-eight hours bus ride away, I was hoping Mount Isa was going to be worth it! Far into the Australian outback, far away from anything; I travelled through deserts and endless nothingness within an ocassional stop in some middle of nowhere town.

When I got on the bus I couldn't believe my ears when the driver explained for what felt like ten minutes about the dangers of leaving your feet in the aisle and how your trip could be ruined if you were caused an injury in this way. They really are thorough about things out here!

While on the bus I spoke to one women who was enquiring about whether a seat was taken to which I replied "I think a man is sitting there." Little did I know that that even the simplist of sentences was going to be hard for someone to understand out here.

"What a mam?"
"No a man"
"A nun?"
"No a man, a male!"
"Ohhh a maaaaan!"

Jesus, this is going to be fun.

Thank god, it was only one silly women on a bus that my accent made hard work for or this could have been a hard couple of months!

Mount Isa is a funny old place. Bigger than the places I stopped at en route (thank god!) but as lively as a bush in the outback. NOTHING happens here.

Its so quite, people do puzzles at the hostel... for fun!

On the plus though it is one of the best places to save money, as there's literally nothing to spend your wages on! There's one cinema, but the hostel has so many films there's not even any reason to go!

I found work at a bar/restaurant in one of the hotels in the town. Suprisingly it actually gets really quite busy and I do enjoy it a lot.

The only thing about this place is that it feels, in the words of Dylan Moran describing Oz, like "its located three-quarter of a mile from the surface of the sun, with people audibly crackling as they walk down the street!" I couldn't have put it better myself! This place is hot, with a capital H!... and the storms at night, I've never seen storms like it in my life! Amazing to watch, but so so loud! One lightening rod cracked only three streets away the other night and I heard it clearer than any lightening i've heard in my life... popping and cracking as it bolted toward the ground.

As dull as it sounds, i'm actually quite enjoying the quite life, at least for the time being... its some much needed time out, and i'm sure i'll be heading on to some crazy times once again once I leave this place!

The start of my adventures 'Down Under'!

A sad goodbye and two flights later I arrived on Saturday October 15th in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.

I changed flights in Darwin, in the north west of Australia and while waiting for my connection I saw a newspaper with the headline "Armed boy, 13, caught towing a donkey"... and I though 'What the hell kind of country is this!'

Australia was a huge dose of the reality that I'd been missing out on for the past few months.

Things were almost 'normal' again. Ok, many of these 'normal' things were still so different to life back in England, but I felt like I'd just returned back to civilistation after being in some alternate reality where stress didn't (well almost didn't!) exist. And this reality hit hard when I realised how goddam expensive Oz is! If i'd arrived from England it would have been not so bad, but after Bali where I paid 20p for a bottle of water, I almost fainted at the thought of paying two quid!

No wonder the wages are so good, you need good wages to keep you off the streets. I was gonna have to get me a job, and fast!

In the hostel I made friend with an English boy from my dorm called Raj, and soon enough we spent everyday together for the next week and a half we were in Brisbane. When I met him I knew there was something strangley familiar about him but I couldn't put my finger on it and then it clicked... he unmistakeably we identical in everything but sex to my friend Emily! We definetely clicked and it was gresat to have another good friend :)

Brisbane is a nice city and I spent my days wandering around the galleries and museums, as well as looking for jobs of course.

Me and Raj had also made friends with a group of French people: Sebastien, Kevin, Euan and Mayol and were helping Sebastien and Kevin with their English everyday. This friendship also worked the other way and helped me little with my french!

One of the most entertaining things so far about Australia though has been defintely been the language! Never in my life before have I heard the phases "Fuck me dead!" or "Fuck me Tracy!"... but more on this later.

Another thing I've noticed about Australia is that EVERYTHING tastes different. Whatever I try to make, It doesn't matter if it comes from a tin or I make it from scatch, it just doesn't taste right!..somethig else I have to get used to!

I was struggling to find a job in Brisbane having a lack of experience behind a bar, so I opened up to the idea of working anywhere that I could find work. Within a week and a half I left the city and headed far out into the outback of Queensland to the mining town of Mount Isa and what a strange place this turned out to be.

So where next, Australia?!

Faced with the reality that not too far in the distant future I would have to go home, back to cold and wintery England, where I have no house or job, I figured why the rush?!

However with the main opposing factor being the lack of cash- there seemed one prety good answer to that: Australia!

Me and Merel had discussed the possibilty of going to Oz and the more we talked about it the more I liked the sound of it. Eventually I knew I had to make a decision and so I decided yes!

I was so far round the world already... why not just go that little bit further, and who knew when I've had the opportunity to go again. I thought I might as well go while I have no comitments back home whatsoever. I just made perfect sense, so I went fo it!

I applied for my visa online and had it confirmed with the same day and booked my flight to Brisbane and I was all set!

The thought of going to Oz was so exciting. Not only was I going somewhere new once again, but this was a place I never dreamed I actually get to.

I planned to stay for a few months maybe, make some money and head back to Asia. However I was well aware that all plans are subject to change, although I didn't quite anticipate how much they were going to change!

Within a week of arriving I'd been in touch with STA travel about changing my flight date, but apparently a ticket I was told was valid for twelve months was actually only valid for six. So now I had two options: go home or buy a new flight. This decision was the easiest I think I've ever made. Now I have the freedom to stay in Oz for as long as I want so why not stay he for the length of my visa and actually see some of Oz!

So as much as I miss all my friends and family, I guess I'll be seeing you all next October!

Suprisingly enough my mum's response was "I knew this would happen!" haha, and my dad is fully supportive of my decision too which is the best outcome I could have hoped for!

Let's hope I've made the right choice, but i'm already pretty sure I'm going to ave one hell of a year!

"Bali Holiday"

Life continues in much the same way so much so its really hard to distinguish one day from another. The concept of days and dates has gotten as difficult as ever. Days are spent at the beach with whoever is hanging out there that day and evenings at the night market with the occasional night spent in the one and only Apache!

Apache can only be described as a shrine to Bob Marley. A regaee club tucked behind the clubs on the main street- Legian- in Kuta, its where all our friends go every time they go out. Keching, one of the guys that sometimes comes to the beach, is the singer of the band who play there most nights. He has a wonderful singing voice which really adds to the comforting feel of Apache. The club is decorated with large picture of Bob, and of course is decorated in yellow, green and red! I will forever have fond memories of this place and the many good nights I spent in there.
Any night in Apache is definetly not complete without the local spirit of choice though: Arak. More vile than straight vodka, Arak is thankfully diluted mostly in a concotion in what is known as Jungle Juice, which everyone passes around with a shot glass- continuing with the sharing culture of indonesia.

To mix things up a bit I decided to take one of the guys, Gangan, up on his offer to take me to one of the temples at Uluwatu, which has also become the name which the whole area in the south of Bali has become known. About 45 minutes drive on a scooter and we arrive at the Uluwatu temple. In my experince temples have always been serene places to visit, a nice place to gather your thoughts and admire the beautiful architechture and learn something about the religion. However this was a place where you have to make sure you tie everything down and be on guard- this was a place with very mischeivious monkies! Literally two minutes after I walked into the temple ground I had a angry looked beast of a monkey charge towards me going straight for my feet! While I tried to kick him away and hold on to my flip flop I was hitting him with my other one!... there was no way I was going to loose my shoes to this thing! After sucessfully battling with the monkey (and hitting one for the first time in my life.. and with a flip flop!) me and Gangan wandered around the temple and admired the views of the bays below which were breath-taking.
The water was such a clear torquise, swirled in patterns with the crashing waves looking as if it had been tie-dyed.
Unfortunetly after the calming views of the tides, even though I tried my bst to afford the hairy robbers, one flew out of nowhere landing on my head and grabbed my sunglasses straight off my face and continuted to mock me by sitting on a wall wearing them until he got bored and snapped them in half. They were in pretty bad condition anyways, I guess he just saved me a job throwing them away!

After the temple and my attack of the apes, we headed to a couple of different beaches, one I dont know the name of but is concealed within a cave and another called Padang Padang where we grabbed some freshly cooked cooked and sat on the sand and ate before we headed back to Kuta via Gangan's cousins house.

Sometime when travelling a place can easily just pass by as another place you've been, another thing to tick off you 'seen there, done that' list but its an amazing feeling when you visit somewhere that really stands out to you and brings a kind of happiness and contentment you can really feel within, and for me Bali has done this. Even more so when I visited the small town of Ubud.

Ubud, made internationally famous by the book and film 'Eat. Pray. Love,' is a gorgeous rich green leafy town renown for its strong cultural and arty influence. Everywhere you go in Ubud there are budding artists selling there paintings- most showing enormous talent. Its a great pleasure to be able to walk along the streets and peer in the shops just to look at their work. Its a beautiful place and I can easily understand why some people choose to come here to live, even if it isn't the most lively happening place.

The second time I visited Ubud with Wawan, I went to the Antonio Blanco museum, a man that is known as 'The Bali Dali.' And this fits him perfectly. Orginally an Italian man, Blanco lives in the town of Ubud and this beautiful gallery stands within a garden, home to allsorts of strange and wonderful birds, houses his many many works of art. As with many artists a lot of his work focuses on the female form but also he has painted many weird and wonderful paintings aswell.

(Ubud also is famous for it's 'monkey forest'.. which lends its name t the famous 'Monkey Forest Road'... but after the events at Uluwatu,I decided to stayt clear of the monkeys as I'd rather hold on to my specs and flip flops!)

Before long it was time for my friend Merel to head back to Holland and leave Bali. The night before she left we headed to a lovely little bar situated on the beach lit up with laterns and softly glowing globes used as tables. The setting was beautiful but a bar on the beach can have it draw backs
"Oh the tides coming in!... Oh no no its really coming in!!!"... and the tide can become a problem washing the chairs away into the sea! Luckily we managed to grab our things before we were washed away too and ran further away from the tide! Within a few days Phillip also left (only to return again less than two weeks later mind you!)

Before i knew it a month has gone by and its time to leave, but I couldn't leave this place without doing the one thing that Bali is world renown for, and that is surfing!

Unfortunetely I have the worst fear of water and tides which is quite a disadvantage in surfing!!!... so at first I was terrified, and poor Rachman had his work cut out! Through his percivierence he got me into the water and into the waves. Within the hour I was standing on the board and caugh my first surf successfully! He is a wonderful teacher and I owe him a lot, not only did he get me in the water (finally!) he helped me overcome my fear and even managed to teach me a thing or two! Now not only do I want to return to amazing Bali, but I really want to surf again :)

Just before I was to leave there was one last thing that I was to experience properly for the first time, and that was an earthquake. On the Thursday morning at around 11:20am there was a quake just southwest of Bali which was felt in Kuta which measured between 6 and 6.8 on the scale (sources vary) but to me it felt like the world was about to fall down. At the time I was with Wawan in my room, and I'm so glad he was with me, otherwise I wouldn't have known what to do. Thankfully it didn't cause much damage, but it certainly scared the hell out of me (not that I let on to him!) and I can surely say thats an experience I rather not have again!

I was sure gonna miss this place, and the closer it got to me leaving the more I realised how much I loved it.

I would like to thank Rachman, Adan,Sonny, August, Mama, Wawan, Gangan, Okky, Dee, Sunny, Gungun, Bohno, Keching, Gil, Natale, Sarah, Edwin, Ahmed, Johnny X2 and of course Philipp and Merel (and anyone I've missed!) for really making Bali feel like a home from home. The month I spent there and all the good times (in and out of Apache!) will forever be in my memories :)... and I shall definetely being returning, in the not so distant future!

Bali, a home from home

Flying to Bali I can barely hold my excitement. I feel like a kid on christmas eve who can't sleep as they don't want to miss a slight glimpse of Santa Clause.

When I arrive I get my visa, collect my rucksack from the belt and head to get a taxi to Kuta beach.

The taxi drops me in Kuta central and although its pretty late now I decide that I'm so pumped up with excitement I'll try find Merel's hostel. So with a little help from some locals who point me in the right direction I see if I can find it. Unfortunately I can't so succumb and get a scooter taxi driver to take me and I eventually get a room in the hostel next door around 1am.

I finally drift off about 2am when I am able to get over the excitement of being in Bali and seeing my friend soon and get some sleep.

Sunday morning and I change rooms from hostel number 1 to number 2 next door where Merel's staying and get the complimentary breakfast. As far as free breakfasts go, I think this is actually the best I've had. Pineapple pancake, fruit, juice and tea is always a nice way to start the day.

After running a few errands and chatting to my first Ketut of the island I head to the beach. (Ketut means first so every first child, boy or girl, is called Ketut. And the same with second, third etc.)

Kuta beach is blissfully heaven. The waves crash on the shore, surfers are entwined with the water balancing on the waves, and there's perfect sparkling sand. Sunbathers and surfers, chilling and chatting on the beach with the occasional vendor selling their wares- even if some are a little obscure to say the least.

Ok, so I've heard of vendors selling ice-cream and fruit, and perhaps even paintings- that kind of stuff even gets sold on Fistral beach in Newquay... But an archery set? Really?!... Do people actually think 'oh I was sunbathing, but you know come to think of it you read my mind! That's exactly what I need!' Hmmm maybe not. I sure hope selling bows and arrows on the beach isn't this guys day job, or I worry for his livelihood!

(Later I spoke to a girl- who had asked what exactly do I need that for, to what he replied, killing chickens?...and she was like I don't kill any chickens in Coventry!)

Kuta instantly feels like a home from home. Life is so easy here and before I even know it a week slips by without me even blinking an eyelid.

I spend my days between hanging out at the beach and riding my bike around Kuta and the local area.

Merel and Phillipp (who also came to Bali!) made friends with lots of locals so as soon as I arrive I have an instant group of friends. Rachman has a surf stall on the beach so everyday under the big tree all his friends come and go, so whenever you go down to the beach there will be at least five people there to sit with. Okky ( who no joke looks like the Indonesian answer to Jack Sparrow!) plays his guitar, quietly singing away to himself while others chilling out join in every now and again.

Every night me and Merel head to the night market on our bicycles and get dinner from a group of different stalls where whatever you want is available for around £1.

Everyday fruit shakes too- any fruit you want made fresh for around 40p...

The only bad thing about this place is what's happening to my English! Spending so much time with people who speak English as a foreign language is ruining my own pronunciation of English. Everyone has their own pronunciation and it sounds so broken and its rubbing off and I too sound like English is not my first language! Its like "You want?" "I make picture" "yes, it good!" Even when I meet and speak to another English girl we both find ourselves slipping into this mash of English. Its the worst travelling bug to catch!

Except catching Finglish (foreign english) life is good. If your not relaxed on Bali then there's something wrong with you- happiness here is infectious. With every ridiculous laugh you hear and the smiles you see, everyone greeting each other happily and enjoying life. I would challenge the most bitter cynical person to spend a while here to try and not walk away with a smile and a new positive outlook on life.

A taste of Malaysia

I arrive in KL around half five in the evening. The largest backpacker area is in China Town so I get the sky train to Pensar Seni (Central Market) and set out to look for a hostel that's recommended in the LP. I'm on the right street but end up heading the wrong direction but luckily I bump into an Aussie and Kiwi couple and they're staying at the place where I want to go.

They are flying out that evening to Paris and are using KL as a lay over also but are really unimpressed with the city calling it boring. As ever I hate to jump to conclusions about a place as soon as I hear someone else's opinion, but in this case I would have to agree.

I won't go as far as assuming anything about Malaysia as a whole as I'm in no position to comment but KL is really rather boring. There's no atmosphere and elegance about the place, it just feels like a bit of a hollow shell of a city. I completely believe that it can be the people you meet that make a place so perhaps I didn't meet the right people but that was my experience.

Everyone I did meet seemed tired of it, unimpressed or was waiting to move on.

The mosques were uninventive, the streets crowded, markets typical. I was really making an effort to find things I liked about this city but it wasn't being made easy.

With three days till I flew to Bali, I decided to take things easy. Start my days lazy reading for a few hours and then taking a wander till I was tired. Came back to rest then go out again for some dinner.

On the first day I wander around the market and find a small art gallery where I meet * (his name escapes me so I'll call him *). * is a young malaysian guy who wishes to be anywhere else than malaysia. Not shy, he soon tells me his life story, starting with the problems he's faced living in KL. Having studied in America and Europe his spoken English is unlike others Malayans. His grammar is correct and this has caused him segregation from the local people he knows. All his life he has been bullied for not being Malaysian and wishes to life abroad in Paris or London. A student of fashion, he yearns to work in photography but instead is stuck with his dreams unrealised in a country where he feels he does not fit. Wherever you go in the world there will always be prejudices about the most stupid things. Its such a shame however when its so bad that people no longer want to call their own country home.

On the second day I decided to try and find the national museum but in the maze that is it wasn't as easy as I anticipated. Hoping to find information on Malaysian culture I was greeted instead firstly by a frightening looking giant snake at the entrance then the history of how the world began and a really scary moving display of cavemen that just shouldn't be allowed.

On the third day I took decided to check out the Batu Caves just north of KL city. I finally got there by local bus after a 45 minute journey.

The caves themselves were impressive great big gloomy gothic looking structures with threatening dangling spikes hanging down above you.
Monkeys ran around squabbling among themselves sounding like abu from aladdin getting into a scrap with the carpet, taking no notice of the visitors wandering around them taking their pictures.

I stood observing them for a while realising just how intelligent these creatures were while I watched one pick up a bottle, unscrew the lid and drink the water inside.

Leaving KL that evening reflecting on my visit I was glad that I'd been but even more excited to be leaving for the Indonesian gem that is Bali.

I do have one regret though- I made friends with a middle-aged french man that I shared a dorm with and spoke to many times in passing, but I never knew his name, and I guess I never will.

The end of beach life... for a few days at least!

As the part of my trip that I share with my friend is drawing to a close there is one place left to visit and that is Koh Phi Phi. Made famous by the film the beach, I wished in some way there was half a chance I'd bump into Leo, but unfortunately apart from the copies of The beach on sale he was nowhere to be seen.

The boat ride getting to Phi Phi was by the scariest of my life.

The weather was so rough that they were accelerating as fast as they could but then went they stopped the whole boat crashed down against the waves swinging the whole boat left to right. Every time the boat thudded down you could see by the look on peoples faces that everyone's stomachs did the same flip.

I don't think I've been so happy to get there in one piece!

Koh Phi Phi unfortunately didn't life up to the hype for me, and doesn't have a patch on Koh Tao.

Expensive and with nowhere just to hang out, unless it sunny to sunbathe and you want to drink copious amounts then the draw of Koh Phi Phi will be short lived by a tour taking you to where the beach was filmed at Long beach. (Which because of bad weather I didn't even get to see!)

Perhaps we were just unlucky with the weather so it pretty much sucked but even so I think I could only spend a few days there. The place is gorgeous of course with the signature white cliffs and the lovely beaches- packed with Korean tourists on there boat trips all taking the exactly the same photographs along with a few westerners who believe for 10 minutes they're in a photo shoot rolling around on the beach tossing their hair around and getting there boyfriends to take lots of pictures.

I wanted so much to like this place but after only a couple of days we left to go back to Krabi... Well that was the plan anyway!

The weather got increasingly worse on the sea and by the time we were wanting to leave every boat leaving Phi Phi had been cancelled, all bar one to Phuket, which is in the opposite direction to Krabi.

Faced with the decision to stay on Phi Phi or go to Phuket, we decided it was best to get off the island for fear of being stuck for who knows how long. With both of us with flights to catch we didn't fancy our chances, so thought it best to get the boat to anywhere on the mainland we could.

Its never a good sign when you get on a boat and they hand you a sick bag and an anti-nausea tablet, but we also got a doughnut and a cup of coke so it wasn't that bad! With the prospects of another awful boat journey I decided to sleep as much as I could and managed to be asleep throughout the whole journey and woke just as we were arriving into Phuket.

From the habour we went straight to the bus station and within minutes there was a bus leaving to Krabi so in no time at all we were heading to Krabi and although a lot later than planned finally arrived early evening.

We found a perfect place to stay near Krabi habour run by the loveliest women and stayed there the next two nights before it was time for us to part ways, my friend to Bangkok and me to Kuala Lumpur.

Travelling with my friend had been great but it was nice to be on the road again and on to the next country. So with the familiar feeling of not knowing what to expect we left each other at the airport and I continued by travels once more alone.

For the time being it was time to say goodbye to Thailand again, the land of yellow and green curries, Changovers and tuk tuks but there was much more to be seen and I would return at some point in the future.

Koh Lanta- The escape of the expats

We arrive at Koh Lanta and our bus driver lets us out at a place we found listed in the Lonely planet, although I fear immediately this is one of those occasions the LP is very very wrong, and I am right.

We wander through the cottages and no one is anywhere, not even a peep. Finally we find a man, but it is very obvious this is nowhere we want to stay.

Luckily there is a nice looking cafe not so far down the road so we decide to head there for some lunch and decide what to do, and this is where we meet Luke.

He is the funniest out-rightly gay young man with a hilarious infectious attitude that made you feel as though you wish you were this young vibrant gay guy or failing that, that he was your best friend.

Not one to be shy, he quickly became our hostess, our tourist information centre and our chauffeur.

Soon enough he had fed us and showed us a range of places we can stay and has got his father to give us a lift to the south of the island.

However his father drives us but because he's not too sure of the way and doesn't speak English, his mother comes because "she can speak a little English but doesn't know the way" and then Luke comes because he knows the way and obviously speaks English too. (Kind of makes the mums role redundant but I don't say anything!)
So me and my friend and the Thai family set off to this hotel Luke has recommended, all the while Luke's pointing out places he knows along the way and good places to eat.
We arrive at the hotel which is right on the beach and has a beautiful view. Luke and his family come with us to check out the place (even all coming to look at our room!) and leave when they know we're satisfied.

Unfortunately not so long after they leave we discover the rooms suddenly been invaded by ants and that there's no way which we can stay there! (Ants all over the bed and climbing up the walls!) So after some talking with the management they finally agree that we can move to a more expensive room although somehow we manage not to have to pay the extra.

Koh Lanta is a quite place not much going on daytime or evening. Just the locals going about their daily business and a group of expats that have made a home here, who we meet later on at the Drunken Sailor, a local cafe.

A perfect place to hang out- bean bags and hammocks, we'd already spotted it earlier on in the day and headed there after dinner.

Its a funny group of people, from an american couple who have just moved to live in Chiang Mai for the year to a couple who have lived in Koh Lanta for nine years!

We spend the rest of the evening between Drunken Sailor and What's up Bar at our guest house drinking Chang and Sam Song until the early morning with a band playing then later everyone joining singing popular pop songs from the book.

The next day we change hostel to one that one of the locals from Drunken Sailor recommended which is much better and cheaper than where we were staying, and spend the rest of the day chilling out reading on our huts balcony. For dinner that night we decide to check out the restaurant at the new hotel as it has a stunning view of the bay, and what a beautiful romantic view it was. A long curved bay with the sea lapping on the shore and lights twinkling along the beach.

The rest of our time on Koh Lanta continues in much the same way, quite and relaxed. Its definitely a place for not doing much as really there is nothing to do- a nice escape from the real world for a while but then to stay there for so long you really wonder what the group of people who live there are really escaping from.

Railey good times!

Once again being left somewhere with the faith that someone at some point is going to come collect you, its just the way it works.
So we waited for around two hours in this little cafe taking some noodles for breakfast and watched the 'sing-a-long' karaoke channel (only in Thailand!) until our minibus came to take us to Krabi town.

The bus didn't take all that long and took us to Krabi town bus station. From there we bought a further ticket to Railey beach, and within 45 minutes another man came with his pick-up truck to take us to the harbour. However it had failed to be mentioned that we would encounter a charming women while we waited for the boat.
A women only to be described with eyes like the devil; I took an instant dislike to her.
We were told to wait in her travel agency until we could board. She ordered and bossed people around trying to get them to pay for hotels and boat tickets, day trips and excursions. If anything she was very good at her job, so in that way I have a little admiration for her, even though its matched by a greater loathing.
She seemed to be offering something almost reasonable to me and my friend so we accepted it cautiously, although not booking accommodation for our future plans which she took pleasure in scouring at us for. "I worry about you.." (In an almost evil tone) "Don't we'll be fine!" "OK BOSS!!! Hahaaa"... What a strange women!
As ever I knew to take what people say with a pinch of salt, as it can often be wrong, and because of my scepticism I sensed she didn't like me much either. I had heard rumours that accommodation in Railey was expensive, so when she offered some almost decent price we accepted (of course only to discover later that the place I had wanted to go was available and much cheaper!)

Finally we were on our way, away from that frightful women, and on the longboat to Railey beach.

The Andeman coast, (the western coast of the peninsula of Thailand), is one of the most beautiful places I have seen on my travels. Roughed with limestone cliffs towering way over the turquoise sea that laps up against the shores and up on to the rocks. Greenery covering the sprawling mountains and cliff edges in greens so deep its as if your looking at a painting not a real scene. Sometimes I can barely believe what I see in front of me. So many times have I seen such scenes in holiday programmes presented by Craig Doyle or paintings hung in the National or Tate Galleries depicting such views, that when you see it with your own eyes you have to blink to make sure your not dreaming.

Within an hour or so we arrive at Railey East check into the hotel the horrible women backed us into a corner to book and relax after what felt like a marathon journey. A jumbo, a night boat, a mini van, a pickup truck and a longboat and were finally here!

We decide to go out and have a wander around our new location to see what is what and a little way into the jungle up a small path buried under one of the towering cliffs we find a tiny wooden structure that houses a coffee shop owned by some rastas. When people say fresh coffee, you really can't say you experienced it until you've tasted a coffee made by the owner of this hut who's grown the beans himself and you've watched him with love, care and attention prepare a coffee which takes ten minutes to make. With every step he takes his time and ensures everything is just right... And the result?... One of the best coffees I've ever tasted.

We then go and sit on the beach for the rest of the afternoon, only to met one of Railey's other residents- a huge brown eagle like bird the resides in the trees near the beach.
This giant bird swoop and dives across the bay but takes a particular liking for one man stood up on the beach and decides to dive at him for about twenty minutes- he in turn stands trying to defend himself against the crazy bird with some kind of tennis racket he has in his hand. Extremely funny for everyone else on the beach watching but I imagine not so much for the birds target!

Later that day in search for dinner we find the hostel I was wanting to stay at originally (which I had been told was closed by that evil women!) open so we ate there.

Nextdoor to the hostel was the Rasta Bar which looked like a good place to hangout so we decided to pop in there for one and were told there was a live band playing that evening to celebrate the half moon so we figured we come back again later on when things had got going. The owner Nat also had a pet baby Otter that was adorable and followed along behind him wherever he went. Nothing surprises me anymore, not even how some has a baby otter as a pet!
There was another place not far from the Rasta bar that we'd wanted to check out called Last Bar so we figured we'd go there for a bit and come back to see the band.

Its the strangest feeling when you bump into friends in foreign countries even though you know their in the same country, so imagine my surprise when I bump into a girl I know in Last bar who I didn't even know was in Thailand! Railey beach, far away from civilisation, only accessible via boat and I bump into a friend from home! What a small world!

The four of us (me and my friend, and her and her friend) then all head back to see the band, then finish the night in last bar.

Not getting back till around 6am, the next day is of course spent hungover and we only hangout is local cafes for the day.

Tuesday, and today is a day for doing- yesterday was so lazy that I have booked to go rock climbing with the guys from the coffee shop and spent the morning with one of the guys climbing one of the limestone cliffs in the jungle. Very fun but also very exhausting; so much so that I get back to the room and fall asleep for two hours!

The rest of the day carries on on the same way, reading, cafes and general chilling out.

Before long its Wednesday and its time to leave- back to Krabi and on to the next place- Koh Lanta.

Railey is a stunning place, and although really quite small is full of friendly people and a beautiful beach and well worth the side track!

Koh Party Island

Koh Phangnan- I'm pretty sure that anyone who raves about this island was completely inebriated the whole time they were there or stayed in the north on the pristine picture postcard beaches where no drinking takes place at all.

We arrived to the usual hordes of locals pulling you this way and that all trying to get you to stay at their hotel or to take there taxi, which can be a bit overwhelming when you've literally just stepped foot off the boat and are finally back on dry land after your latest bout of sea sickness.
After working out what we were going to (and chatting to an austria women whom met in Vang Vieng that I bumped into) we got a jumbo to Hat Rin the most popular place on the island known for its parties and young backpacker population. Everyone else in the jumbo was heading to a place named Coral Bungalows which seemed decent and affordable so we decided to go there too.

At first glance it seemed nice enough. Clean and lively but after a while the tackiness and cheap holiday resort feel began to shine through a little. I honestly felt that I had been transported back in time and was in the set of Dirty Dancing. The music didn't help that feeling either with classics such as 'the cactus is our friend', which to this day I cannot work out what cheesy teen movie I heard it on.

After wonderful peaceful Koh Tao, this island definitely felt like it was built for tourists and centred around drinking.

That evening Coral was hosting a pool party- what it was famous for across the island and so that evening we went along. There was a pool and there was a party, but although not as crazy as I'd imagined we had a pretty good night. We got chatting to a few spanish people who were woking in dubai and spent the night with them and unfortunately a weird Italian guy called Mimo.

Mimo had seemed innocent enough when he had first introduced himself to me and my friend but when he tried to make advances and was turned down by Andrea, he just became irritating and wouldn't drop the subject.
He proceeded whining "Why Andrea, why?!" when she finally just gave up explaining that she had a boyfriend and wasn't interested and started ignoring him instead. (That phase however became rather infamous!)

There's always one that has to spoil it! After a while we managed to loose him and we could relax that we were no longer plagued by this crazy Italian man!

The next day was largely uneventful as we just spent the day relaxing at the hotel and beach reading and chilling out.

Feeling ready to actually do something and a bit bored of the tackiness of Hat Rin we had booked a boat trip for the friday to get out and see a bit of the island and hopefully have our minds changed about this popular destination.

What that trip did was to open our eyes up to the fact that our hotel wasn't in the middle of nowhere but 10mins walk to the town and where the popular beach of Hat Rin was- right under our noses the whole time!

The day as a whole was a well spent day. We got to see the other more secluded beaches on the north of the island as well as the vast amount of fish that occupied the waters. And as it turns out a girl that I'd met back in BK was on the same boat trip!

When we arrived back at Hat Rin, six of us decided to meet back up and have dinner together- which was actually ignited by the only man on the boat, a lone 40-something man who in coincidentally was Italian and looked like Mimo! (If mimo had grown a bit of hair and put on a hat it really wasn't working very well!)

After dinner we moved to watch the local fire dancers do their stuff, getting the spectators involved by with fire blowing and games such as the balloon game, transforming in to a beach party that went on until the early hours.

The saturday was our final on Koh Phagnan before heading to Krabi province on the east coast on over night via ferry and bus.

As a traveller it serves you well not always to put total trust in the information people give you. Although they are probably misguided and not meaning to do you wrong its always best to get a second opinion on most things. For example, having decided we wanted to get the night ferry we asked one women about booking and she told us it does not run over the weekend- which would have put a spanner in the works! However it turns out it was running! We also asked a women at our hotel and she rang the boat company up and they were running as usual. Case proven!
For the rest of the day we went to Hat Rin Noi beach and chilled out at our hostel until the time came for us to be taken to the harbour for our boat to the mainland.

The boat itself wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. It actually had mattresses laid out on the upper deck of the boat all with pillows. The only worrying thing was the amount the boat rocked side to side which was rather unsettling until it slowly rocked me to sleep.

We arrived at the mainland at around half five in the morning and were taken to a cafe where we waited till seven for the minibus to take us to Krabi.

If you take Koh Phangnan for exactly what it is its amazing. Ok so the town itself is a little touristy and the beach parties are what you expect- full of westerners yes but also a lot of fun. As for full moon parties I can't comment but from what I've heard the general consensus is "I'm glad I did it, but I would never do it again!"

Koh Tao I Love You

The journey to Koh Tao was fairly painless although long. There had been a slightly worrying moment when at three in the morning we'd dropped at a petrol station and told to wait- without any further instruction. However it was only about two minutes before a man was ushering us over to his Jumbo (a big pickup with benches in the back) telling us he was there to take us to the ferry. Sometimes it pays to be trusting as he was good to his word and we were taken to the ferry point where we waited for around 3hrs for the ferry to the island.
Even on first impressions I fell for Koh Tao in a big way and still to this day am sad I didn't spend longer on its sandy shores.

Known famously for it dive culture, Koh Tao is a very relaxed bohemian place to spend your days. The small winding alley-way main street of the coastal villages runs parallel to the cost line lined with restaurants, bars, guest houses, dive-schools and the odd 7/11. And by night this alley-way is alive with the buzz of the evening, the air glowing with lanterns and small lights hanging from buildings and trees.
I had just such an overwhelming feeling of happiness in this place, and although I cannot say that I really did much, I felt the warm sense of contentment the whole time I was there.

The days started with runs down the beach, followed by a lazy travelers breakfast of nutella and bread. We'd spend the rest of the day on the beach and until early evening, when we'd firstly sat at a beach side restaurant with a cup of tea and then ate dinner at another local place while watching a recent blockbuster accompanied by a few Changs, then finished the evening with the short walk back to our room ready to sleep and do the same the next day.

The routine was nice and we did this for a few days before we decided it was time to move on to Koh Phangnan- the island made famous (or should I say infamous) by the full moon parties it hosted. So on the Wednesday (31st) we left Koh Tao happy and relaxed ready for whatever Koh Phangnan had to offer.

Back in BK

On the 25th afternoon I flew back to BK leaving Laos behind with many fond memories but happy to be returning to beautiful Thailand to go and see the most beautiful places of all- the islands and beaches of the south.

I arrive early evening, and it feel like I returned home. Back in the hustle and bustle of one of the world most renown cities never knowing quite what to expect but always feeling comfortable and excited.

Determined to find a cheaper way into the city from the airport, I headed towards the train station.
One of the greatest perks of travelling is the people you meet along the way, and that Thursday was no exception. Obviously looking very lost at the ticket machine with my map out, no doubt looking like a typical tourist, a local man offered some help which I happily accepted. Showing me which way to go, giving me a better map and even paying for part of my ticket he sent me on the right track... Along with another english man who had come over to me once he'd left asking if he could come with me too.
So the two of us set off back towards Khao San Rd, the heart of BK's backpacker community. (When I had gone through arrivals, when asked to write my Thai address I'd simply written Khao San Rd, which amused the guide somewhat!)

When me and the teacher, on his school holidays, arrived we went our separate ways- me to a hostel I knew well- cheap, easy and clean and him towards the main street in search of a last night in Thailand he wouldn't forget before flying home.

So that evening I chilled alone for the first time in weeks feeling perfectly happy whiling away the evening at My House on the sofas eating Thai green curry, drinking Chang (!) and watching films with the rest of the hostel.

The following morning I set off back to the airport to go and meet Marnie, who had decided she'd like to join me for a few weeks in Thailand.

It felt very bizarre that within a matter of a few hours I would be seeing my friend. It had felt like months since I'd been at home, and anything 'normal' felt worlds away right now.

It was exciting to see her and almost unreal.

We headed back to the hostel where I was staying and on the there who should we see but Merel!

After all Marnies travelling we took a short walk around the local area but just mainly chilled out at the hostel and while Marnie slept I went to sort out a blocked bankcard, only then to bump into phillip! Yet again me and Phillip and Merel were to be reunited!

That evening the four of us went out to get some food together- going on Phillips instruction we were heading to a restaurant that he'd stumbled on the day before and had taken a shine to. Only thing was it was less of a restaurant than a hole in a wall down an alley, which served only papaya salad and chicken curry which was more chicken cartridge than anything I would consider curry!

After having eaten not so well we parted ways with Phillip who had plans to meet with some others, and me Marnie and Merel whiled the evening away at a road side regaee bar, drinking buckets of Sangsom, who's slogan was "we don't check I'd."

Saturday morning came and me and Marnie headed to the Weekend market- aptly named as it was on Saturdays and Sundays.

This place was HUGE. You wanted clothes, they had it. You wanted a chair, they had it. You wanted a massive machete, they had it. Everything you could dream of was there. We were there for like four hours and I am in no doubt I didn't even see a quarter of the place.

The ride back from the market was just as entertaining as the market itself. Convinced he was a rally driver trapped in the body of a tuk tuk driver, our driver raced through the streets of Bangkok as if his life depended on it. (When in fact my life depended on it, and at one or two time when the tuk tuk was lifted on to only two wheels as he's skidded around buses, I saw it flash before my eyes!)

Arriving back at the hostel we had just enough time to eat some fried rice and yet again say goodbyes to Merel and Phillip before catching a night bus to the first of our island stops- Koh Tao.

...And goodbye to Bangkok once again. It had been a pleasure and I'd no doubt be seeing her again soon!

Thank god for Vientiane!

On arriving to Vientiane I really didn't understand why people disliked it. I was forever hearing stories of how boring and ugly and unexciting it was, but I was greeted by a place full of life, atmosphere and buzz. And for this reason, you should never allow other peoples perceptions determine where you go and what you do. Everyone has their own ideas on what makes a interesting place and what constitutes a good time. Just like Cinderella- the glass slipper won't fit everyone but when it fits, it fits perfectly. Vientiane was my glass slipper of Laos.

This is where I finally found my peace with Laos and all the bad luck I'd experienced melted away and was replaced by a warm fuzzy feeling that made me brim from ear to ear.

This city has a vibrant French influence, that is evident everywhere you turn. The avenues of trees, the replica of arc de triumph, the cafes and boulangies, and bicycles and scooters filling the streets.

We headed out to get dinner, walking straight into a market lining the main street parallel to the boulevard and the Mekong River, with Thailand twinkling in the distance. Here we sat down at a road side cafe and peered around at what everyone else was eating to get a feel for what was good.

Not only were tourists eating here but many locals- which is always a good sign and everyone seemed to be eating from a steaming pot balanced over a plate of hot coals, so we ordered the same.

Anywhere you go in Laos there's one thing you can guarantee is no matter where you are the waiter/waitress will always bring you the wrong thing. Every time without fail.) You'll be waiting for your change and they'll take it to the next table, you'll ask for a coke and they'll give it to your friend or in this case the next table have already ordered a hot pot and they brought it to us! Realising the mistake one of the older waiters comes over and takes it to the next table, then the young boy bring us a plate of seafood, and we once again pass it to the next table and then he brings us a plate of spices and looks really confused at where the seafood has just gone! Its just like a comedy of errors.

Always a constant running joke with everyone around you and you find yourself at every meal swap you dishes and drinks around the table.. But its all part of the charm of Laos.

Just as we walked away from the roadside cafe with bumped into Mike the Norwegian from Luang Prabang, so we finish off the evening with a few beers and heard the tales of the infamous guys night from LP.

On the monday morning we decide to hire bicycles so we can just ride around the city and explore.
Having a bike and being able to take things in at your own pace is really rewarding.. Its almost as if you become part of the city. Your slap bang in the middle of the raucous traffic, keeping up with the pace of the city. We spent the day visiting the Arc de Triumph replica (unfinished of course!) And leisurely stopping to pullover at a man with his fruit cart to eat some pineapple.

For lunch, we headed out to Nazim's a Indian restaurant just round the corner. And we were so amazed at how brilliant and cheap it is, we end up eating lunch there for the next three days too!

The rest of the afternoon we relaxed before heading out for the last time as the three of us for an early dinner before Alena caught a bus south to Cambodia. We decided to go to Lonely Planet recommended 'Sticky Fingers' which was well worth the recommendation it had received.

So as we met up with Dan and Phillip, we waved goodbye to Alena as she drove away on the back of a tuk tuk towards the bus station.

For the rest of the evening me and Merel had a few beers with the guys in a rooftop bar and then took a walk down the boulevard and sat by the river.

Tuesday was another leisurely day in Vientiane and I spent the morning cycling around the city looking in bookshops and art galleries. After lunch we caught up with the world at an internet cafe and took another ride around stopping at the mall, which was more of a self contained headache as it was brightly lit with 100 watt bulbs, then to a local market where we bought some fruit similar to lychees and found a quiet spot at a temple to sit and eat them at. As the sun set, we wandered down the boulevard watching the sun sink beyond the horizon, while the sky was flooded with luminous oranges and yellows and the rays finally faded into darkness. To finish off what can only be described as a perfect day, we ate at a small restaurant just a few metres from our restaurant. Cosy and quite looking, we decided we go inside... And god I'm glad I did. The carbonara is the best I've ever had.

Wednesday started with a bang. Determined to be active we wake up at seven and go for a run around the boulevard before the sun gets too hot. To our surprise we also come across some public gym equipment in a park next to the river so also had a go on that. Returning to our room exhausted, we have a power nap in the first air con room we've splashed out on while being away. After such an active start the days slows down again, we nazims for lunch then relaxing in a cafe eating ice-cream sundays for the rest of the afternoon.

At 6pm however we take exercise to a whole new level. Joining the locals in what can only be called the ultimate aerobics class. Taking place on the boulevard facing the river, accompanied with cheesiest music. It was the most intense workout of my life! I sweated from every single pore of my body but it was amazing! Granted we were near enough the only white people taking part so we got a few spectators- but it was all part of the fun of it!

After such an active day its only right that we should have ended the day with a kebab and a beer lol. Good things come to those who wait and all that!

On the Thursday it had finally come for Merel and me to finally part ways- me to fly to BK and her to Bali- so I set off to the airport saying me goodbyes to a dear friend I'd made (although in actual fact I would see her in less that 24hrs later walking down the street in BK!)

Laos had been the best of times and the weirdest of times; all in all I had some brilliant and memorable moments and made some amazing friends.. Some of which I would see again in the not too distant future!

Luang Prabang the Second Coming

Overnight with a real bed, medicine and a good nights sleep Merel started to get better. Although it took her a few days to get well again, we were definitely in the right place.

Me and Alena amused ourselves by wandering around the quaint town, visiting the local waterfall tourist spot, doing some swimming and visiting a french restaurant that evening.

The following day we left Luang Prabang once again- this time with no intention of returning. We left Merel there one more night, until she felt 100% ready to travel and to join us in the party capital of Vang Vieng.

Nong Khiaw aka Nice and Quiet

So back on the bus we go all the way North East to a small rural village on the banks on the river Nam Ou (or nAM Ouuuuu, as the man in the Chitlada corrected as I said the name to Alena in the reception.)

Nong Kiaw is a very peaceful place buried in between the stunning mountains ranges that stradle the river. Not many tourists venture this way so it was a nice get away from the beaten path.

When we arrived we quickly realised that we really weren't going to be doing much for the next few days and there really wasn't much to do!

In fact I think mostly we just took in the views, ate and relaxed.

We took a walk one way across the bridge and realised we'd seen everything there was to be seen (a big tree and a few locals tending to their stalls) and then walked the other way and saw the same plus a few small restaurants that lined the streets.

As the eveing drew in we passed the time with conversations about friends, home life and career aspirations and dreams for the future and went to bed at a very respectable hour... if we were about 80 lol. However When me and Merel headed back to our room we did the usual scan round the room to see if we had any company, only discover two cockroaches as we first open the door and a spider as big as a hand in the bathroom. I immediately ran and jumped on the bed and Merel slammed shut the bathroom door. There was also a leaf on the floor which we inspected, which slithered across the floor when it was touched... So great two cochroaches, one spider and a moving leaf!
We considered just going to sleep, but somehow knowing about the huge spider a few yards away wasn't very comforting, so we decided to go find someone to take care of it for us.

In the search for a member of staff we came across nearly the whole family who sent their 10 year old daughter with a stick! (How humilating! Lol) While we stood cowering outside the bungalow we described the spider and she went inside to find it. We heard a loud bang and she came out. Just to make sure she'd got it we asked her whether she'd found the huge spider which we had described to which she replied "only small spider".. Convinced she'd got the wrong one.. We made the size again with our hands and she agreed "same one" and showed us the squashed spider on her stick! If that's what she's calls a small spider- I DO NOT want to see a big one!

That night I didn't feel so happy about staying in our riverside hut but tiredness eventually took over and I fell asleep despite the deafening schreeches being made by the riverside insects.

On the sunday we decided that we really had to achieve something with our day so set out to find some caves that was the regions main draw. we eventually stumbled across the river we'd been informed about that passed by the caves enterance. We the much appreciated help of one small local man we waded through the river to the other side and entered the caves, that had been inhabited during the second world war as hide outs by Japanese soliders.

The caves were pierced by beams of light that illuminated the darkened corners creating a somewhat poetically calming warmth within the haunting, aggressive looking exterior.

We spent maybe around half an hour in this mysterious looking place, before heading back towards the river and being helped back across by the old man.

For the rest of the day we found a resturant that had the asian floor cusions and hammocks and we chilled out there with both me and Alena trying to figure out our plans for the future.

That evening we had a dinner (fried noodles all round) and a few beers and then spent the rest of the eveningon our balcony of our little hut on the rivers edge (which was no better than a shed in at a back of a garden!)

The following day we changed our plans and decided to get a bus to return to Luang Prabang and go from there to Vang Vieng, but we bumped into Mr Mang (a the young Nephew of our hostel owner) who advised us of a night bus we could catch that would take us all the way to Vang Vieng so we bought a ticket for that instead.

Faced with another day in the sleepy Nong Khiaw, we decided just to spend another day at the lounge cafe catching up on reading and listening to music.
However throughout the day Merel became progressively more ill, in reaction to her malaria medication, so by the time for the bus came round she was in no fit state to travel in a packed overnight bus.

Instead Mr Mang very kindly offered to take us in his mini-van to Luang Prabang. (We decided it was for the best to take her to the big town, that way if she needed to gt medical treatment, she would be in the right place.) So leaving at seven we took a very sick Merel by mini-van with Mr Mang and his cousin back to Luang Prabang.

The whole journey the sky was illuminated silently by a dramatic thuderstorm. Sheets of lightening lite up the horizon, beautifully highlighting the mountain ranges below. All the while being accomplied by Mr Mang's rather bizare 90s boy band music collection including Ronan Keating and the Backstreet boys! All very strange!..

He told us about his family and how he'd started building a guesthouse of his own with the help of a dutch man he'd met and how he dreamed of a better future- but he was stuck on what to name his business. He wanted something that meant something to him but could only think of the generic names that every guesthouse you pass on the streets are called. So for the rest of the journey we all tried to come up with suggestions for him, and finally came up with the name Mango guest house. Not only did it have his name in it- which he loved!- it meant man go (as in activities and trekking) and was different to all the othe guest house names in his region- none of us had come across a mango gust house on our travels so it was a winner!

I hope one day in the future I will return to Mango guest house (near the big tree!) and see his booming business!

We arrived back in Luang Prabang at around 10pm, and it was great to be back at Chitlanda!

A lot of Luang but not much of a Prabang

After travelling for so long is was nice just to be able to stop and rest in one place.
That has got to be the worst part of travelling. I love the journey itself- I could look out the window till the cows come home- but I hate having to pack all your worldly possessions, trying to fit them into your bag wondering how they ever were in there in the first place!.. And moving somewhere else.
Leaving and arriving are just not for me.

So when we finally found the guest house we'd been looking for, I was over the moon! Clean-check, no animals-check, shower that works-check!.. And this is home for the next few days!

After a much needed shower and a change of clothes- we head out to get some food at a place round the corner, 'Utopia.'
The sign on the corner says 50m, but just like the 3hr bus journey which actually takes 5- the bus not only has to wind through the mountain roads but also swerve all over the road avoiding potholes, cows, chickens and children... you learn to take these things with a pinch of salt.

The restaurant (actually about 400m away) is nestled between the small back streets on the rivers edge and really does suite its name. This place is a hippie haven, made for relaxing.
As soon as I see 'Prangers and Mash' on the menu I have to have it!.. I am British after all and I haven't had gravy for over a month now! Although even with one of the most British dishes you can have they still manage to make it taste... Laos.

The rest of the evening was not so euphoric however- and this was the start of the Laos bad luck.

Early in the evening I'd tried to find my credit card just so I knew where it was- when I couldn't find it I just assumed I'd put in a safe place that was so safe that I'd forgotten where it was. Unfortunately this was not the case.

On the way back from dinner I nipped to an internet cafe just to check my online banking to see if it has been used and almost fainted when I realised it had been used for 6 transactions at gas stations with the bill totally around £1000.I rang my bank immediately and cancelled by card still in a state of shock... I think the man in the internet cafe thought I was mad so I tried to explain what had happened. He just stared blankly at me and said ok. Not the response I was looking for! I was hoping for an "Oh my god! I can't believe it! Are you alright?! Here have a chair, you look like you need to sit down!"Not a slightly puzzled 'errr and...' looking face!!

I checked the date and realised that it had been stolen over 10 days ago when I had been on a night bus from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. I'd had money stolen from my hand luggage but hadn't noticed my card had gone as all my other bankcards were still there along with all my valuables and my passport. (Don't worry its all been sorted now and I've been reimbursed.)

The next day there was a knock at the door and Rob was standing there asking if we were coming for breakfast. As I stood explaining what had happened I noticed a blonde girl arriving in the room opposite our room and then I noticed it was Merel! Apparently she'd been looking for our hostel, given up and checked in anywhere and it happened to be the right one!
So as the three of us hugged and Merel ran into our room jumping on the bed, Rob stood there in surprise not really knowing what was going on!

We got ready and me and Alena headed out for some breakfast at one of the bakeries on the main street. Laos has a very distinct French influence and the streets are full of bakeries and cafes spilling on to the streets serving all kinds of cafes and pasties.

We found the police office but typically enough they were closing for an 3hr lunch break- if only we could do that in the UK.. I think I'd like working a lot more if that was the case!

With no plans, we headed back to the guest house as Merel was still there.
Our guest house faced a large hill in the centre of the town which had several Wats on so we decided to check them out, although to go to the top you had to pay around £2 so we decided a hand-drawn map with drawings of the final few Wats would suffice for us.

We headed back to the main street and back to another cafe while I waited for the police station to open again.
I asked for a strawberry shake and a piece of pizza which I paid for at the counter and then one of the staff came over and told me there was no strawberry ice-cream so I wouldn't be able to have it and gave me my money back then someone came with my milkshake... I think this was karma saying 'you've had a bad day, have a milkshake on us, you deserve it!'

After reporting my credit card to the police we stopped by the tourist information to get some info on Laos... However they were lacking a little on the information on Laos. "You know the lake.." "I don't know any lake.." The big one between Vang Vieng and Vientiane.." "No" "(gave name of it) we want to know if its possible to get there" "There's no lake" *we point to it on a big map of Laos* "ohhh that lake!... No I don't know." Well great, thanks very much you were brilliant- your really good at your job being tourist information and all!

After I sorted everything out with another not so helpful person at my insurance company- Alena and Merel decided with everything that had gone wrong they would treat my that evening and take me to dinner and pay for the evening's entertainment- Bowling! (More on that later..)

We finished off the day with a foot massage .. Which to be honest was an almost every part of your body massage and a quick foot tickle with a small stick!

After dinner we headed to Lao Lao Gardens a bar near our guest house and had a few drinks- as the rain started coming down we ran to a sheltered seating area and bumped into a few guys from our guest house.

There was Mike from Norway, two French guys Janis and Greg and the real star Phillip from Germany.
We were introduced to Phillip just after he made one of the French guy laugh like a little girl in a way only a German could do. With unamused tone of voice he had told the most boring story in the most serious way- basically he had been woken up by a cockerel and was very annoyed about it but had gone back to sleep again- it was the disgust in his voice at the very idea that he'd been woken up by this bird that made it so funny- but as we pointed out, it didn't really make a difference to his life and he'd gone straight back to sleep so there was no problem whatsoever. He on the other hand did not agree!

As I already mention Laos shuts down at 12; however there is one place in Luang Prabang that remains open till 4am... And that is the bowling alley in the jungle!

You have to get a tuk-tuk for about 20 minutes into the outskirts of town and when you get there you can't actually quite believe that your stood outside a brightly lite bowling alley in the middle of nowhere.

The night was a right laugh- although for the guys a lot more interesting... us girls left about 3 and left them there, only to be told of their tales the next day.
Apparently a group of Laos guys that were bowling next to us (who had been extremely friendly to the the guys) turned out to be gay, and had taken the guys who were unaware of this fact to an afterhours gay bar where they were all given drinks for free- well free until one of the French guys was being given a face massage while a few of the others had recieved much more obvious advances.

The next day was pretty lazy and the three of us girls lazied around in utopia most of the day reading and listening to music the guys didn't seem to make it out of their rooms; whether it was hangovers or the shame we're not too sure!

That evening we ventured again to the markets and found, tucked away down a dark corner, a passage-way filled with noodle dishes, rice , barbequed meat and fish and vegetables all brightly and vibrantly welcoming the passers-by illuminated vividly under the elctric lamps. The food was amazing and oh so cheap- a whole plate of whatever you wanted and for about $2.

We finished off the night playing cards outside our hostel- and this is where Phillip became the most infamous. As he tried to explain a Russian card game that involved tactics and allies and effectively waging war on each other (how very Russian!), we couldn't help but laugh at his direct and assertive manner when explaining the rules. "You 'ttack me!".. "You.. want me ... to take you?!"... to what the rest of us finished, "what to the bedroom?!" ... Although he didn't understand at all how he had been funny and seemed very unamused about the whole sistution while the rest of us were brought to tears.

The next morning (Sat 13th) we got up at 5:30 to go see the monks on their way to their morning mediation. The streets were awash with their vibrant orange robes as they collected their daily offering from the people who gathered on the streets to see them on their way as the sun came up.

And that was to be out lasting thought of Luang Prabang or so we thought as we caught a mini bus north to Nong Kiaw.

The slow boat to Luang Prabang

We woke up early to head towards the border where we were stamped out of Thailand and took a small fishing boat over the river to Laos. Once we got through the visa lines and our passports were checked we were officially in Laos! We got a ticket for the slow boat and were taken to the north pier where it departs.

The boat wasn't as traditional as I'd hoped looking more like a pimped out fishing boat with bus seats rather than an authentic and rustic boat which I'd imagined... However I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have appreciated sitting on a wooden bench for the next two days!
The boat left the border at half eleven and that was us- on our way floating up the Mekong River on our way to Luang Prabang!
The scenery along the way was idyllic. Tumbling mountains as bright as a dulex colour charts. All different types of trees and vines in the greenest greens imaginable canopied the hillsides the entire way whilst tiny villages dotted the riverside.However even that gets a samey after staring at that view for two days on our pimped out boat.

On the evening of the first day we pulled over and stopped at Pak Beng, a smallish town, for the night. The whole place gets over ruled by the 100 or so passengers of the boat- which is a really strange feeling. Your walking down the street stopping and talking to people as you know everyone... Which becomes stranger when your in Luang Prabang and you still know everyone, and then as you continue through Laos still bumping into people like your old friends who haven't seen each other in years!

We all split up to various guest houses in the town but mutually agree that we meet up later on in Hive bar- advertised as 'the only bar in town' which I guess is the best sales technique ever. This place was very basic but when your the only bar in town I guess you don't really have to go all out! The dance floor was what can only be described as a small cave, which had a plank on the floor that was explained to be the stage and the one line of flashing lights hanging limply on the wall which the owner came over and pointed to saying "the light.. Its for dancing!"
We all got a few drinks and got better acquainted with the people from the boat- Rob the New Zealander we met in the supermarket the night before, the irish guys who'd been drinking their way though Thailand, a couple of Austrian girls- Heidi and Sarah who were travelling with a group of friends from home, the English guy just starting out on his two year travel plans and the infamous 'Filleeeeep' from Chile who Alena got better aquainted with as they danced the salsa. I am yet to meet a South American that doesn't want to dance the salsa! When I go to South America I better pack my dancing shoes!

The night passed out at around 12- we're definitely now in Laos! Not the party nation of Thailand- if they say its shuts at 12 you can bet they'll be shutting up the shutters and sweeping around you at 11:30 looking at you silently saying "why are STILL here?!"

The next day, what is this now...Wednesday!?!... God I'm losing track of the days of the week.. I barely know the date anymore, after all those years of writing it everyday on everything you ever do!

We spent the day on the boat, this time with locals sitting at the front taking their wares to sell in the town and a few small children who were being entertained by a French Elijaha Wood look alike who was taking photos with them. The day was pleasant and I spent it reading and listening to music. The Velvet Underground went perfectly with the gentle swaying of the boat.

We arrived in Luang Prabang that afternoon and the three of us (Alena, Rob and myself) went and found a room at Chitlada guesthouse in the town.
Three days of travelling and we'd finally arrived.

A piece of Pai

So we arrived in Pai late on Friday- probably about 7 or 8. In our mini van was an American guy who turned out to be the Guru of the bus- apparently he lived he Pai for 6 months previously and again for another few months a few years later so knew Pai like the back of his hand. We had stopped at a roadside shack and he'd advised everyone on places to go and eat and what to do- in the space of 5 minutes he'd suddenly became the Ghandi of our small group.
The whole bus journey I'd been sat next to Danny the crazy spanish guy who looked like a terrorist (his words not mine!... Apparently he had been pulled over by security at Heathrow so many times he refused to fly there anymore!)... He was a really nice person though and we'd talked the whole journey about travels through asian as he'd too travelled in India and Nepal (just actually) all the time gesticulating largely in a way only the Spanish can do!
When we stopped, everyone thanked the American for his advice and I stood chatting to Danny and his friend Javier- exactly as crazy but in a completely opposite, camp funny kind of way. He'd been chatting to two dutch girls the whole journey, so the five of us made our way to one of the recommended places to stay and got a room for the night.
We set our bags down and looked for somewhere to eat. Considering it was Friday night there may as well have been tumble weed rolling down the streets it was that quite.
We found a little place that was still open after a while and all had a few beers and some fried rice and noodles while Javi continued to make us all laugh till we cried- Especially when Allena had said that she'd been missing cheese and one night had gone out specifically looking for cheese as she normally ate it in the middle of the night back home- to which Javier replied "You need a boyfriend!"
We followed dinner with a round of margaritas at an old American place then I left them and headed back to bed as it had been a wild night the previous night with all those Thai ladies!
The next day we lazily all got up at a leisurely hour and went and got breakfast. We decided that today we would make the most of it and that we would rent scooters to go and do some exploring! (Having never driven one before, I figured I'd prefer to be the map reader and official photographer on the back of Merel's scooter- the most experienced of the lot of us.)
Within about 10 minutes we'd lost the 2 Spanish guys somewhere back in the village chatting and being far too Spanish for us (aka undecisive and airey fairy!)
The three of us Allena, Merel and Me headed off up the mountains round the twirling roads that circled through the landscape to the viewpoint that overlooked the valley. It was over 30km away but when we arrived it was worth it. The view was phenomal. I sat at the top of the mountain and had a cup of noodles- as you would in Thailand- and took some pictures although none of them would ever capture the view I was seeing with my eyes. We also took some rediculious pictures of us jumping and pretending to fly which turned out to be pretty funny!
We then drove to the hot springs but it was getting pretty late on and we wanted to get back before it rained and the sun started to set- though I did have a go driving the scooter myself- but in fear or endangering my own life or that of the bike decided it was best for Merel to carry on driving!
With the Spanish guys nowhere to be seen we headed out for some dinner. We had planned to go out that evening to one of the Americans recommended haunts but a power nap resulted in an all night nap and we didn't get up again till the following morning.

The following day (sunday), we still had the scooters till 1pm so we had breakfast and headed to the hot springs again with Claudia- an Austrian girl the dutch girls knew who'd we'd seen while at dinner the previous evening. We spent a small time there and swam in the cooler pools before heading back. On the way we called in at an like shack that had art displayed on the outside and chatted to the women inside, who then informed us on a gallery she and her husband had down the stairs behind the hut. Their paintings were beautiful. Very colourful and vibrant.
When we returned to Pai village we bumped into the two Spanish guys and sat and had some food with them before they headed off back to Chiang Mai to get a flight south.

The rest of the afternoon we chilled out on our porch sharing stories and listening to cheesy pop music- apparently we all still love the Spice girls and Sugababes!

Before long it was Chang o'clock- offically 5pm and we had a few beers and decided after such a lame evening the night before we should definitely make up for it this evening! We grabbed some food at an Italian restaurant and headed to Buffalo bar doing ridiculous impressions of the Spanish guys "Hiii rrriiddee hhhooorrssesss!" and "Hadihaaaa!!!" With over-enthusiatic hand praying movement that went with it! Somehow we ended up taking over the whole place- singing with the band, and dancing in the street (albeit a very small street!) And then taking the band to Bamboo bar with us where me and the singer of the band uselessly tried to carry on singing 'hey soul sister' with neither of us actually knowing any of the words! The night passed out about 4 with us getting lifts home on scooters being guided the whole way by two dogs that had stayed with us all evening!

We woke up at 8:17... And unfortunately our bus to Chang Kong (the Thai border) was at half 8.... So me and Allena (Merel was staying behind) grabbed all our belongings and ran out the door- her running past a 7/11 to get water and me running to the pick up point to hold up the bus. But as per usual they were running behind and we were there in plenty of time.
That bus journey was an interesting one. The road back from Pai towards Chiang Mai is as if a child has taken a crayon and drawn spirals on a piece of paper- and that on a hangover is an interesting cobination! Allena was focusing on the horizon and I was realising that ready was a very bad idea!
The scenery remained a good distraction though, so I just stared out the window and decided that the jungle trees covering the mountains looked as if they were halloween ghosts made of sheets.... And slowerly we made our way via Chiang Mai to the Thai border.

The rooftop terrace, A 100 day old egg and The Hangover part 3

The following day (Thursday) we spent most of the day chilling out back at Little Bird Hostel. We ventured only to get food and do some laundry, which believe me after that trek was VERY necessary!

We found a women who owned a cart that sold spit roast chickens- so obvs each of us bought half a chicken- and a women who made the best shakes from only 15 bht and headed back to the hostel terrace with enought food to fed a small Thai village and chilled out for the rest of afternoon reading and listening to Music.

Raffi also picked up a thai delicacy- an egg that is buried underground for 100 days and boiled- making it both look and smell horrific. In the end I had to tell him hurry up and eat the thing or get rid of it lol... I can't say it was very tempting at all- as for it being a delicacy- I think thats a trick they must play on forgeiners to get them to egg a mouldy egg!

That night, being Raffi and Malcolm's last night before they headed to Bangkok to fly home we decided to go out for a few drinks and food. We must have played about 1000 games of pool that evening and as the drinks flowed we went on search of some bars that played music.

I took us across the river to some bars I'd seen- although I knew some of them were hooker bars, I didnt realise just how many their were, which made choosing somewhere to go just a bit more entertaining!... all would seem find until a beautiful women would say in a very gruff voice Swadi-ka!

Eventually we found a bar that seemed ok and had a shot of tequila. However it still seemed rather tame and quite, so we asked the barman where the party was at. He directed us to a Hot Shots bar. Driving up to the building- I had a horrible feeling we were being led astray to a ping-pong bar- mainly as the name of the building where hot shot's was, was named "PornPing Towers."

That was enough to for Malcolm to turn around and go home- but me and Raffi had been assured it wasn't so ventured inside. Thank god we were greeted by a waiter and a women singing on a stage, followed by some Thai star and his dancers then Thai rave music.
We had a few drinks in there and got talking to a group of Thai women- they were brilliant and gave us drinks (red wine!- Rather lethal) and were a lot of fun. Just as Raffi was like- do you think we should go home?.. i'd agreed to go with the Thai women that we would go with them to 'Spicys' so dragged him along. So on the back on the mopeds we went and this group of around 10 Thai women took us to spicys. i would love to see what we looked like- two westerners with a gang of thai women!

The night is a bit of a blur but it was awesome- and apparently even when drunk I have an amazing sense of direction and managed to get us back to the hostel.... the next day we had a million stories from the night before and I think Malcolm wished he'd been there too.

My favorite has to be me daring Raffi to ask a man how much he was paying for his Thai girlfriend for the evening and the Irish guys response "I don't care shes fucking beautiful!"

In a very hungover state the next day the three of us went to the big temple 16km out of Chiang mai... I love it in England you would stay in bed allday with a hangover- when in Thailand, go to a temple!

That afternoon, a grabbed a minivan to Pai, which is three hours north of Chiang Mai... our bus was absoultely crazy. The whole journey I was sat next to the craziest little spanish man called danny sharing stories of travels. When we arrived two dutch girls- Alena and Mereo and the two spanish guys Danny (the crazy elf-like guy) and his friend Javi (the complete opposite-very camp and very funny)- my favorite quote of his "these chips taste like they've been fried in car oil!"- all shared a room at Mr Jan's House.

A crazy few days- or as the Thai's would say 'Ting Tong!'